Ron, I get it, DOT 5 is not for everyone, but it is good to have choices. Here are my comments on your list: “There are a couple of reasons I stick with DOT 3 or 4”.
Some major benefits that are worth mentioning: DOT 5 is inert (not hygroscopic) and will not suck moisture from the air, so 2-3 year changes aren’t needed, resulting in lower maintenance. DOT 5 will not damage paint like DOT 3/4 does. If spilled it on a fender or you have a master cylinder leak down the front of your firewall, DOT3/4 will cause damage, some even use DOT 3/4 it for paint remover. Having written that, if you are planning on painting any car part, you really need to clean it well if it has been exposed to DOT 5 or you will have adherence problems. DOT 5 has a high boiling point of 500 degrees, and stays stable at that temp because it isn’t hygroscopic. That’s reassuring to me coming back from Reno. My G brakes get plenty hot coming down from the Sierras. I do like DOT 4 Castrol GT LMA (low moisture activity) for daily drivers though. Bob From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Ron Waters Bob – There are a couple of reasons I stick with DOT 3 or 4.
Ron From: Bob Jasinski Ron, Silicone DOT 5 fluid is lighter than water, so the water (if any) falls the lowest point in the system. When I bought my G in 1978, I installed new hoses, brake cylinders, and rebuilt the master cylinder. I installed DOT 5 silicone fluid, and did nothing to the system for 18 years except brake adjustments and fluid check, with a rare top-off. In 1996, I pulled the G out after a 4 month storage period, drove around the neighborhood a bit, and noticed the car pulling to one side when braking. I inspected the front wheel cylinders and found the front lower left cylinder weeping fluid. I inspected all the wheel cylinders and found a rust patch on the bottom of the lower front wheel cylinders on both sides, no corrosion in the top fronts or rears. I removed all the wheel cylinders and master and had them sleeved in brass (just to add to the overall safety of the system), and replaced the rubber hoses. Refilled with fresh DOT 5, bled and adjusted. No problems since. I know there are those on the list that never change out DOT 5, and have not had any issues, but I do it about every 10 years, just to assure safety, and to view the waste fluid. Previously done in 2011, I flushed again in 2022 right before the Pasadena meet. The fluid was clear and clean, and no water separation evident. Maybe I should just have bled the front two lowers. Bob J From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Ron Waters So when moisture accumulates in the brake lines of a vehicle with DOT 5, where does it go ? Ron From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx On Behalf Of dplotkin I am with John on this, I don't know anyone who has DOT 5 employed properly, thoroughly bled, and the brake parts are otherwise dimensionally correct for the car with a problem ever. In fact my 61 Savoy built in 2007 has the same DOT 5 fill in it to this day no rust no problems anywhere. If you have a hobby car that sits half the year like most of us do north of Mason Dixon, you should be using Dot 5 as it will never screw up your brake system and you will never have to deal with it again. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Date: 10/6/23 8:26 AM (GMT-05:00) To: Larry Wood <larryjw7@xxxxxxxxx> Cc: chrysler 300 club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Silicone dot 5. Brake fluid Hi .. something strange happened here as rust is only possible with glycol . Just the chemistry . not debating the story , but it was not silicone fluid that caused this . Some kind of mistake in labeling or whatever as water is immiscable in silicone . It’s not possible . Or lines had incompatible fluid in them . I do not know , I don’t doubt story The military has it in every single vehicle they own , often stored 25 years . They have to work for sure the day pulled out . I have it in 25 cars zero issues other than very hard to get bled right Yes you can use glycol and drain every 3 years . I did not follow that on mercedes due to negligence on my part it cost me 3000 in brake replacement parts and service — ABS etc which is incompatible with silicone fluid . But over all my 300’s , over many years I’d say 85 % had a big rust pit on the bottom of the wheel cylinder due to water carried there by glycol . It is designed to hold water until saturated , and that water should come out when you drain it regularly . But people NEVER did that on 300 , as the 85% shows . It comes out of saturation in a cold day at the bottom of the wheel cylinder What happens is it was ok anyway at a long ago rebuild — when you rebuild brake shoes ( depends on wear ) you push pistons in more it seals ok , but as pistons move out with wear of shoe or worst of all a panic stop , one day you uncover the rust pit at the seal lip and all your brake fluid gushes out . It is at 1000 psi Some of us think they know more than the military , while i think that may be true in many areas , it is not true here I think the only reason it is not standard fare is very high relative cost especially way back then . And difficult bleeding . Your mileage may vary , but your glycol will always absorb moisture at master and carry it to wheel cylinders over many years . Rust pit shows you that , you have all seen it …. jg Sent from my iPhone
-- -- -- -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/032301d9f8a2%245d1e5680%24175b0380%24%40comcast.net. |
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network
Archive Sitemap