Yes, so instead of moisture being trapped in the fluid, which is the way DOT 3 works by design, it all accumulates in one spot. Not exactly sure how it gets inside the lines, but we know it happens, or our DOT 3 wouldn’t turn that darkish color after a few years, signifying a flush is in order. Moreso here in the northeast than in dry parts of the world. Ron From: John W Sager I would think it would collect in the lowest point in the system, presumably a wheel cylinder. The real question would be where the moisture came from. John On Friday, October 6, 2023 at 01:49:53 PM EDT, Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: So when moisture accumulates in the brake lines of a vehicle with DOT 5, where does it go ? Ron From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx On Behalf Of dplotkin I am with John on this, I don't know anyone who has DOT 5 employed properly, thoroughly bled, and the brake parts are otherwise dimensionally correct for the car with a problem ever. In fact my 61 Savoy built in 2007 has the same DOT 5 fill in it to this day no rust no problems anywhere. If you have a hobby car that sits half the year like most of us do north of Mason Dixon, you should be using Dot 5 as it will never screw up your brake system and you will never have to deal with it again. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Date: 10/6/23 8:26 AM (GMT-05:00) To: Larry Wood <larryjw7@xxxxxxxxx> Cc: chrysler 300 club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Silicone dot 5. Brake fluid Hi .. something strange happened here as rust is only possible with glycol . Just the chemistry . not debating the story , but it was not silicone fluid that caused this . Some kind of mistake in labeling or whatever as water is immiscable in silicone . It’s not possible . Or lines had incompatible fluid in them . I do not know , I don’t doubt story The military has it in every single vehicle they own , often stored 25 years . They have to work for sure the day pulled out . I have it in 25 cars zero issues other than very hard to get bled right Yes you can use glycol and drain every 3 years . I did not follow that on mercedes due to negligence on my part it cost me 3000 in brake replacement parts and service — ABS etc which is incompatible with silicone fluid . But over all my 300’s , over many years I’d say 85 % had a big rust pit on the bottom of the wheel cylinder due to water carried there by glycol . It is designed to hold water until saturated , and that water should come out when you drain it regularly . But people NEVER did that on 300 , as the 85% shows . It comes out of saturation in a cold day at the bottom of the wheel cylinder What happens is it was ok anyway at a long ago rebuild — when you rebuild brake shoes ( depends on wear ) you push pistons in more it seals ok , but as pistons move out with wear of shoe or worst of all a panic stop , one day you uncover the rust pit at the seal lip and all your brake fluid gushes out . It is at 1000 psi Some of us think they know more than the military , while i think that may be true in many areas , it is not true here I think the only reason it is not standard fare is very high relative cost especially way back then . And difficult bleeding . Your mileage may vary , but your glycol will always absorb moisture at master and carry it to wheel cylinders over many years . Rust pit shows you that , you have all seen it …. jg Sent from my iPhone
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