Re: {Chrysler 300} Paint Thoughts
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Re: {Chrysler 300} Paint Thoughts



That is one of the techniques used. There are different clears too. However the balance between achieving period sympathetic appearance and practical durability/repairability is tight. If you are going to use the car every day, subject to sunlight, contaminated rain, road tar and filth than use a modern 2 stage paint system that most shops know how to use with great skill and results. They do it every day. 

 

Danny Plotkin

-----Original Message-----
From: "Ryan" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2023 7:48pm
To: "James Douglas" <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: "rob bohuslav" <sonoramic413@xxxxxxxxx>, "dplotkin" <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, "Chrysler 300 List Server (chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx)" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Paint Thoughts

I used flattener in a single stage eurethane on my dash to get the right sheen. It color sanded beautifully and retained the same sheen. Wouldn’t a flattener work the same way in a clear? 

Ryan Hill

On May 30, 2023, at 3:49 PM, 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Danny,

 

The problem I have with using a flattener is that if you get a spot that needs to be buffed out it shines up that spot and then you must buff the entire car.

 

I had a long talk with one of the company reps at the time and he admitted that the flattener would buff up as it only works once on a clear coat.

 

Of course, one could try two or three different polishes that are a little more gritty so as to have a match but that would be very hit or miss.

 

Have you had any issues with your flattener shining up if you needed to polish a spot for a light surface scratch?

 

James

 

From: rob bohuslav <sonoramic413@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2023 14:07
To: dplotkin <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>; Chrysler 300 List Server (chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Paint Thoughts

 

Dan, 

 

I vaguely remember there being a thread on the build for your Savoy, but for the life of me, I cant find it on the website. Can you send a link to that thread? I am also working on a '61 Savoy 2 door. I spoke to you at Hershey a few years back next to the unreal Green '60 Fury Convertible in the car coral. 

 

Rob

 

On Mon, May 29, 2023 at 3:23 PM dplotkin <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I built a 61 Savoy as a drag strip refugee back in 07. Its black. Two stage black looks greasy. So I did single stage Glasurit  urethane which is widely considered the best paint made. 

 

Later I did a 56 Fleetwood which is a very delicate and interesting Dawn Grey, which appears as a very pale violet. I was concerned about a mid century pastel over clear. I wanted to avoid a glazed ham with books look. We used the same Glasurit urethane but this time we cleared it with a technique to flatten it somewhat. 

 

I attached a couple photos. 

 

Danny Plotkin 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 

-------- Original message --------

From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Date: 5/29/23 2:46 PM (GMT-05:00)

Subject: {Chrysler 300} Paint Thoughts

 

When and if Allstate ever gets off it butt and gives me a claim department estimate for their customer who backed into the 300K door…

 

I need to decide about paint.  The entire car will need to be repainted. My guy thinks that the entire side of the car will need to be painted. Matching a door with no good place to “break” the lines will not work especially over time with fade. Since I need to the roof and trunk painted, may as well do the entire car.

 

The problem with metallic paint is you cannot sand, or polish out runs. You get the leopard effect if you try.  Given the cost of good paint, they really do not want to play trial and error with that. So, they do base coat then a clear coat.

 

The problem with base coat and clear coat is that if there is a serious scratch or ding in the future you cannot easily match that. You end up painting entire sides again.

 

I am thinking of using a single stage non-metallic that is as close a color match to the Ruby Red as we can get. Since this is going to be our primary driver for the next 20 years and do a lot of cross-country driving…I am thinking that may be a better way to go. Single stage can be blended in for a scratch or small ding.

 

What are folks’ thoughts on this subject?

 

James

 

 

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