{Chrysler 300} Fuel senders and autopilot
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{Chrysler 300} Fuel senders and autopilot



As part of another issue , I got into rebuilding a fuel sender on 58 mopar . (57-59) —may be earlier too  .Added Ford brass tank float, got rid of cork . Those senders work with a  magnetic type gauge indicator , instant read — you can see needle bounce around with fuel slosh .  Magnetic design needs no gauge regulator , it works on a differential magnetism principle between two balanced coils ( watch out for needle sticking at E end = nothing wrong with sender or gauge , that can drive you crazy , you go over bump it suddenly starts  working  — have to add a stop of wire etc to keep  the needle lowest place  just at the E or C 
Anyway , I measured the mag sender ; it is about 20 ohms (f) to 200 empty . The later thermal sensor is about 10 F to 90 E . So cannot work right if interchanged . 
time lag of heating design gives a more stable pointer but old  style is probably more accurate . Same ohm range must apply to the  correct temp sender too . 

 On Autopilot , big thanks to Don Cole for info on it . Manuals are really poor — calling out pins 1,2,3 in the troubleshooting section while wiring diagrams are labeled  only with unrelated colors and harness numbers. No real functional description of “ the how” either or schematic diagram . 
Actually fairly simple electrically ,(  I think) , other than very poor documentation . 

The question is about the second hydraulic switch (on MC ? initially?) that releases the autopilot if you hit brakes.  I Saw one installed at Hershey with a tee under MC , two switches . 
It seems ( from logic of wiring) to be a normally closed switch that opens with brake  pressure , the opposite of a brake light switch ( the arrangement inside it ) .
Missing on my car — and unobtanium ? 
Comments  welcome , I can probably make it work with a relay off of one switch , but original is possibly safer . 
thanks , 
John 
Sent from my iPhone

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