hi , Claudio — what are “Issues ?” easy to fix old harness where needed unless burned up by a major short circuit . The wires they used are pretty good by 60 , unlike say 57 some early plastic wires can get hard and crack .
-- I have restored two ( F and G ) harnesses otherwise good wiring where the harnesses I had to work with had been cut off by a genius at the firewall . I did not have the engine / headlight side at all I Used one of them , after repair to replace one that had burned completely in an F and had badly melted the wires all stuck together , and the other in an F in parts with no harness at all . Minor difference in F and G —mainly two small fuses added in the harness , one for dash power supply and one for some other thing ( washer pump?) but same diagram works . I think 62 same situation , you can figure it out . But yes minor changes , one on F is electric wash motor vs trico . The place they can all short is where the wires leave area behind the dash itself and drop into left inner kick panel near the circuit breakers located there . They pass though a stamped opening in the body sheet metal with a very sharp edge that can cut into the wires with vibration . = = Big heads up! A short there is a disaster ! Only some cars will end up having wires resting on it , but have seen it a number of times after seeing the burned one Put that 1/4” or 3/8” open slit corrugated tubing on loose wires and / or cover the sharp body edge with rubber or nylon U shape like door edge protectors . Can also drill holes in metal and tie back the wires from edge with small tie wires or tie wraps . The wires are main battery power to circuit breakers in kick panel and are unfused . Whole harness gets destroyed if shorted — right out to engine inner fender . Other places to check on this are poor workmanship around ignition switch connections ( replaced switch not done well ) and leaving fuse panel loose on its screws or missing mount screws . I think adding a fusible link at starter relay to main car feed is a good idea , but agree looks are not stock . Sold for fords . I think fixing what you have with factory wiring diagram as a guide is 100x less work than the truly huge job of changing harness , realistically you have to pull dash and even then shaping a new harness into place from behind ( how they did it ) is a hard job . Stuff hits around the gauge cluster , wiper and directional switch locations when you put dash back in . Very crowded places . Harness was carefully pressed into shape and held by clips etc . Not like much simpler cars …. good luck , John Sent from my iPhone On Apr 15, 2023, at 7:22 AM, Claudio300F <grisolia11@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
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