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I've never seen this as a requirement for setting idle
speed for any other car I've owned. Why not require headlights and A/C
running as well ? I imagine that A/C would put more of a load on the system than
headlights.
Ron From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Dan Plotkin Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2023 9:47 AM To: 'Ron Waters'; 'James Douglas' Cc: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} I hope I did not buy an engine with a problem... Ron- They want you to account for the incandescent headlamp load
on the alternator which affects idle speed slightly. Dan From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
Ron Waters I'm
confused as to what the headlights have to do with idle speed. The headlights
should have no bearing on idle speed. Also, 700 seems a bit high for slow idle
(in gear). I would think 575-600 would be more in line. But I'm not
familiar with Chryslers after 1959. Also, when
you connected the vacuum gauge, did you plug the distributor vacuum hose
beforehand ? What happens to the vacuum when you throttle the engine ? Do you
see it increase ? Ron From: 'James Douglas' via
Chrysler 300 Club International [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Hi Guys, When I first started the engine I had placed the distributor
on my Sun Machine and it was dead on per the service manual. I rebuilt the carb myself and was careful to double check all
the settings. Although one cannot check that the emulsion tubes are good or the
idle circuits are not hogged out due to years of lead gas ‘blasting” the
passages. I swapped the parts because I had left my vacuum gauge in SF
like an idiot and it is a 160 mile round trip…it was easier to swap the parts I
had on hand. In a few days I will know for sure. But I think it may
have been a combination of too cold spark plugs and too rich idle mixture
screws. I placed my vacuum gauge on it, now that I am back in SF, and
had about 17 steady inches. The gauge was not swinging. It moved no more than a
needle width at idle. What I did notice was that I had opened the idle mixture
screws, a few weeks back when I first started it, the listed amount of one to
two turns open. I then set the mixture screws to rich best idle. That was my mistake. I decided to reset the screws in to lean best idle. Odd in
that the passenger side went in a lot more than the driver’s side. I did
have to turn them in a lot before it wanted to tank the vacuum and start
to burble the engine! When I set it to lean best vacuum it settled down a good
amount and the vacuum came up from 17 to 18 inches.. I took it out around the
neighborhood with a lot of stop signs and the idle seemed to be good. So far, so
good. I then got it home and re-set the idle speed. That factory
service notice from 1964 states that the idle should be at to 700 RPM with
headlights on and in gear. I did that and then I put in in Park and turned
the headlights off the engine went to 850 to 900 RPM. Is that the “normal” spread between loaded and not loaded RPM
with a fresh engine? Tomorrow is supposed to be a rainy day so I will let it sit
in the garage. On Friday I have my normal car guy lunch across town on the
Embarcadero on SF Bay and I will take it across town in all the stop and go
traffic and see how it acts. James From: dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
I
agree with Ron that a vacuum gauge would be helpful here. It may tend to the
side of far fetched to expect a 60 year old engine of unknown mechanical
condition to idle glass smooth on pump gas. Time to give this engine a full
physical, vacuum gauge, fuel pump pressure, timing light, detailed
distributor/vacuum advance inspection and compression test. Its always better to
determine problem via diagnostics than swapping
parts. -----Original Message----- I pulled the NGK plugs
with a #7 heat range. They have about 200 miles on them. The number 1 plug, I
had it out and I cleaned it, before I drove back to SF it was worse than the
clean plugs but not as bad as the darkest ones in the
photos. As the photos show,
some plugs show fouling. The engine is not producing smoke on acceleration or
deceleration. I put in new plugs with
a #5 heat range (hotter) and will see what I get. The idle feels a little
better, but not dead smooth. Issues on both sides if
you look at the photos. Next up is looking for
vacuum leaks. James -- -- -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/017001d94795%24b0758010%2411608030%24%40northeastretail.com. -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/60913F5CD68C4D318905D0D586A9C82D%40ThinkPadL520. |
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