I personally think my storage regime for my 4 vintage cars ranging in age from 1946 to 1970 works. first and foremost no corn gas I have located several sources in and around Kansas City for non-ethanol fuel exclusively when I travel cross country I use websites to identify non ethanol fuel stops and in the event I can't find one I do not fill up at that station I wait until I can fill up at a non-ethanol station. In my last cross-country trip I was forced to only buy one partial tank the whole fuel out of approximately 12 fillips.
I endeavor to keep my tanks as full as possible during your storage and I personally believe that STABIL works but there are too many variables in this equation because I've not had problems with any of my cars since I started using STABIL and stopped using ethanol fuels.
I also open all the garage doors turn on the fans and run my cars for 20 to 30 minutes at least once during the winter if not twice. As soon as spring rolls around I exercise them as soon as possible then top off the fuel tanks with non-ethanol gasoline.
I was told and based on based reputable technical sources that the junk you find in your float bowl in your fuel filter and other places in your fuel system including elsewhere in the carburetor - are degrading vintage parts not designed to stand the alcohol content in ethanol fuels. developing the above regime took me two new fuel tanks 3 rebuilt carburetors 4 fuel pumps and uncounted fuel filters. Since then I've had no fuel problems.
lastly I know of several people that use aviation fuel in their cars because of the long term storage additives in those fuels. if I had easier access to aviation fuel I would also use that.
Jack C. Boyle
-----Original Message-----
From:
chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <
chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of John Grady
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2023 7:04 AM
To: chrysler 300 club <
chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} carburetors / storage
so what is this stuff ?
looks like coffee grounds , clogged the carter jets around mixture rods . Pieces magnified have slight rotary appearance like ? tiny rotelli ? pasta .
symptom : idle screws ineffective , as fuel to idle circuit flows through main jets, rods are down at idle Result : it stalls the minute you close throttle , but long before that , idle screws seem to “ make no difference “ don’t adjust right .
Like most of you , i have a lot of cars in storage , I hope this is not going on in all of them .
There is a filter right before this carb , stock mopar metal one . First thoughts were some kind of corrosion inside short stock line after fitter , or filter parts or can dissolved inside by ethanol ?
Huge hassle ending with tow truck on exit ramp as this lets you get 10 miles from home and car stops for good, after attempting to “ clean it out” . Ran great on highway 90 mph ( rods lift out then) . You slow for exit ramp it dies for good . happens to be a 2 bbl 318 restored truck , BBD carb but identical functionally to front two of wcfb or afb 4 bbl. Truck has plastic gas tank , stainless mesh filter added there This carb was rebuilt 5 years back by a large canadian rebuilder , they left out a check ball under accelerator pump . Floats set lightly low . two upper body gaskets on top of each other not sure why but left that .
Makes me think do it yourself always . Buying rebuilt carb off the shelf a crap shoot , depends on guy who did it Main jets impossible to get out of body, the screw slot previously mangled, and corroded in place ? . Tried heat etc . Then realized critical jet sizing bore is 1/8” below screwdriver slot , nothing can go wrong there and you can still clean it gently — so heads up , leave alone if jet does not come out easily .
fyi , this problem matters …
tip 1 Thinking about it , run car dry every time you put away for more than 30 days?
tip 2, don’t try to “clear it out “ on highway if idle system not working right .
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