Re: {Chrysler 300} carburetors / storage

[John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

hi I found Stabl is junk , it’s just alcohol , removes water . We have enough trouble with alcohol already . 

But Briggs and stratton make a real stabilizer , they have a lot of fat in this fire , as warrantee claims on small engines not starting kill them .

I am frankly unsure if it was used in this truck . I am keeping  now a small booklet in each car with exact history and things like “ what is real fuel gauge error” or “always runs cold“  .Good place to note all this per car . 
I am greatly surprised that much resin is in so little evaporated gas !!!! Maybe it happened each winter .. 
But i hear you ,—yes  it looks like phenolic resin . 
Thinking making tee tool , disconnect fuel line after carb filter  run tank empty through hose tee  AND let carb run out . careful with gas , remember Jay .
Fire extinguisher ( big CO 2) mandatory .. 
huge hassle … especially if a lot of cars otherwise . 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 18, 2023, at 9:22 AM, Bob Podstawski <bobp8@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
> When gasoline evaporates (as in a car in storage) it leaves behind many of its ingredients which fall out of suspension during the process. Typically it’s a resin substance which will stop an engine cold.  I think that’s what you are seeing.
> When I store my cars I always use a fuel stabilizer in a full tank. One must run the car for a while to insure the treated gas fills the carb. 
> If it’s longer term, I will disconnect the fuel line and run the engine till it stalls. Be sure to open the secondaries during this process. 
> Bob 
> 
>> On Feb 18, 2023, at 8:04 AM, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> 
>> so what is this stuff ?
>> 
>> looks  like coffee grounds , clogged the carter jets around mixture rods . Pieces magnified have slight rotary appearance like ? tiny rotelli ? pasta . 
>> 
>> symptom : idle screws ineffective , as fuel to idle circuit flows through main jets, rods are down at idle Result : it stalls the minute you close throttle , but long before that , idle screws seem to “ make no difference “ don’t adjust right . 
>> Like most of you , i have a lot of cars in storage , I hope this is not going on in all of them . 
>> There is a filter right before this carb , stock mopar metal one . First thoughts were some kind of corrosion inside short stock line after fitter , or filter parts or can dissolved inside by ethanol ? 
>> Huge hassle ending with tow truck on exit ramp as this lets you get 10 miles from home and car stops for good, after attempting to “ clean it out” . Ran  great on highway 90 mph ( rods lift out then) . You slow for exit ramp it dies for good . happens to be a 2 bbl 318 restored truck , BBD carb but identical functionally to front two of wcfb or afb 4 bbl. Truck has plastic gas tank , stainless mesh filter added there 
>> This carb was rebuilt 5 years back  by a large canadian rebuilder , they left out a check ball under accelerator pump . Floats set lightly low . two upper body gaskets on top of each other not sure why but left that . 
>> Makes me think do it yourself always . Buying rebuilt carb off the shelf a crap shoot , depends on guy who did it 
>> Main jets impossible to get out of body, the  screw slot previously mangled, and corroded in place ?  . Tried heat etc . Then realized critical jet sizing bore is 1/8” below screwdriver slot , nothing can go wrong there and you can still clean it gently — so heads up , leave alone if jet does not come out easily . 
>> fyi , this problem matters … 
>> tip 1 Thinking about it , run car dry every time you put away for more than 30 days?
>> tip  2, don’t try to “clear it out “ on highway if idle system not working right . 
>> 
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>> Sent from my iPhone
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