Re: {Chrysler 300} Power Window "Half" Blues

John, Ray, Bob, and all,

I have made great progress, and as I expected, it seemed like I had more than one thing that was causing my power window problems. Here is what I solved:

1) Tried my rear window under power. As previously reported it went down, but did not go up (just dimmed the dome light). So then I removed my right rear power window motor.

2) Just lucky, but found two bare wires near the rear back switch that were possibly causing a short. Took care of that.

3) Found out that I needed to "adjust" the incoming wire to my power window master switch powering the right rear. Basically slightly bent the insulation on the wire so that it sits more perpendicular to the connector than it was. The master switch now raises and lowers all four PW motors from that location. There is little I can more permanently do, as the back of the switch connector is riveted on with small black rivets (funny, my rear connectors use flat head screws!). I think I will be stuck with just carefully placing the connector and the wiring into the door frame and treating the wiring like glass.

4) Took apart the rear right switch connector, cleaned up the connectors, and reconnected.

4) With the motor out, I physically raised and lowered my window. I did not feel any binding. I could pull it all the way up and all the way down. Of course, it is lubed up at this point. Maybe it was a little hard near the top, I will look at that.

5) Connected the window motor to the switch while sitting it on the rear floor carpeting. Both the rear and the master switches now turn the motor in both directions. No dimming of lights.

So I need to make sure there is no binding when the motor is "trial" reinstalled, and I am thinking I should consider loosening the lower mounting bolt on the track assembly to see if that might be an issue.

Bob Merritt gave me Dorman window motor numbers, 742-250 and 742-301. However, I called Dorman and they told me these are not for a 1965 300, but the -301 is for a '69 to '73. I am thinking maybe for $35 just buy one, and maybe there is a connector that is different or something that one could use with a little adaptation.

I am feeling good about progress. Want to get these working well before I start reassembling my rear interior.

Ron Klinczar

65 300 in Ice Blue

On Wed, Feb 1, 2023 at 7:55 AM John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi Ron ,
I think you have a mechanical bind . If lights dim motor is getting power . So problem is not wiring or switches . It is at window location . So rear switch and wires are therefore ok ? But can’t overcome the mechanical load These wires have some normal drop . When you use tractor battery almost no drop short wires motor has more torque .
The bind could be in motor not rebuilt right , or in worm gear box , but not likely .If you have a 20A ammeter you can check draw . Compare to others .
Usually problem is in window adjustment etc . Very critical . I had new rubber in a 57 and it dragged badly by friction on the rear windows . Would not go up all the way . I noticed some factory 57 rubber had flocking on the rubber . I think for that reason . Especially 57 -59 Window cannot rub heavily on rubber . Many replacement tubber guys do not have flocking Tempted by silicone on rubbing place but lots of big drawbacks as you know. Maybe wax . . Finally sort of gave up .. window not optimally tight when adjusted to move ok . No other answer on 57 except ? Keep old rubber . I believe some 60 have a more powerful motor in back ( it is obviously longer ) but they all interchange and thus get mixed up
Usually harder in up direction for motor .. also gets into counterbalance spring , I assume good and in right ?
when you say dome quite dim — check battery posts and battery too . But still likely a bind. You could check exact volts at motor terminal to ground , but binding draws more amps volts will drop more
John G
PS Front switch may be bad , they fail inside one contact burns off . Not uncommon . I have taken apart bad ones and used remaining good parts from other multi gang bad or ugly ones ( save those) fixed them . And fits singles . Very carefully bend back pot metal crimps , (minimally ) go easy . Do junk one first . May break .—-the back phenolic board can break too ,use box cutter at edges etc go very easy . They crack easily through one of contact pin drillings I resecure back with any good crimps left or slight bend in of pit metal next to old crimp and epoxy - slight tap with hammer and pin punch in vise works. . Little springs are often rusty , drop of light oil helps . And swap bad contacts . This for 57- 60 - 62 but others look the same to me
Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 24, 2023, at 6:44 PM, Ronald Klinczar <rjklinczar@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

To all 300'ers:

First, thanks to those folks who have given me tips to get me this far. Bottom line: My passenger rear power window on my 1965 Chrysler 300 only moves with the switch in the down direction. When the switch adjacent to the rear window is hit to raise the window, a click can be heard at the motor and the dome light goes quite dim, but no movement at all. Now for the history:

1) The master switch connector on the driver's door has been replaced thanks to Murray Park (the old one was cracked). I took super care to crimp all wires tight and properly. That being said, there is no activity from that front switch to the right rear motor. This condition pre-existed the master switch connector replacement. All three other power windows work properly from either the master switch or the window switch.
2) The power window motor in question was just "rebuilt" by a local small motor company. After gooping the assembly tracks, regulator and rollers with grease and silicone , I hooked up a spare PW connector wire set to the motor and to a small 12V tractor battery. I am able to get the window both up and down doing this.
3) The PW switch at the rear window has not been replaced, but to me it does not seem like the switch would cause the problem I describe above.
4) After tracing and inspecting wires from the rear up to the front dash where the majority exit to the master switch, I have determined that there are no visible rips or tears in the harness tape between the two. The exception could be within the door-to-body wire shield, where I cannot inspect the wires.

My best conclusion is that there is some "dead short" between my two PW switches. My manual's wiring diagram is simple in this aspect...the two switches are directly connected with two "directional" wires. A third common wire leads directly from the instrument panel wiring. That wire must be fine or my window would not work in either direction. I am thinking about replacing (with splicing) one or both the two directional wires along the entire length to see if that corrects the problem.

If anyone out there can understand this and can either agree or offer another idea, I would be most appreciative.

Sincerely,

Ron Klinczar
1965 Chrysler 300 in Ice Blue

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