RE: {Chrysler 300} Advice for a Hurst that is new to Texas

The 300C would overheat in slow, stop-and-go traffic. It happens a lot in the Bay Area. I went through all the usual (thermostat, cap, flushing, etc.) with no improvement. i finally gave up, yanked the radiator and took it to Pankey Radiator in Hayward. He put in what he called a “six-row radiator core”. He used the CPDD top and bottom tank so you cant tell the difference by looking at the radiator. Now I don’t care if I get stuck in traffic; the temp needle never moves past the center square on the temp gauge. The engine takes a looong time to warm up but I will take that trade any day.

Henry Mitchell

300C

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Steve
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2023 12:32 PM
To: Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx>
Cc: John Nowosacki <jsnowosacki@xxxxxxxxx>; 300 Club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Advice for a Hurst that is new to Texas

I have a 1970 Chrysler 300 and in the summers in California, mostly when in slow moving traffic, I found it very hard to keep the engine coolant below 205F with the a/c on. I did the usual things with no real improvement.

What made the difference for me was to take my original radiator out and send it to Glen Ray Radiators and have them put in a high fin density core that they have available (after making sure you have the correct water pump, 180-190F thermostat and no rust in the coolant or coolant passages in the block, etc). They also make the top tank and rest of the radiator look brand new. The total for that is about a grand, but well worth it.

In that time period, GM had much better radiators that were cross flow that provided more cooling area than the upright Chrysler types that is critical for low speed traffic conditions. Radiator maximal frontal area is most critical for low speed cooling while the number of rows of cooling fins is critical for higher speed cooling. GM spent money on their radiators whereas Chrysler was trying too hard to save money and GM also had the nice rotary compressors whereas Chrysler was still laboring on with their noisy, rocking RV2 unit. I believe Chrysler lost a lot of Chrysler customers over their cheap decisions and relatively poor in cabin and engine cooling compared to GM vehicles of that era.

Steve Albu

On Tue, Jan 10, 2023 at 11:27 AM Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx> wrote:

Re: Your question on drilling the 1/8” hole. I recall this is to avoid the possibility of vapor lock when an air or vapor bubble forms under the thermostat and blocks the hot coolant from contacting the thermostat to open it. Can’t hurt. Might help.

Rich Barber on the high ground in wet and windy CA.

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of John Nowosacki
Sent: Monday, January 9, 2023 12:33 PM
To: 300 Club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Advice for a Hurst that is new to Texas

Greetings from down south. Having moved here fairly recently, I'm loving the fact that I'm still going to cruise nights during the week and car shows/swap meets on the weekends here in central Texas in January, but I know I'll be paying for it next summer.
On that note, I've pulled the radiator from my A/C equipped Hurst to have it pressure tested, cleaned, flow tested, etc. by a reputable radiator shop in the area. I'm also taking advantage of the somewhat emptied engine bay to change upper and lower radiator hoses and heater hoses.
My question to the group is, I believe the thermostat in the car is a 190 degree unit, which never, ever gave me any issues on 90+ and humid summer days in New England, but with multiple 100+ degree days in my future, and while everything is out of the way, should I consider replacing the thermostat with one of a different value, such as 180 or even 160?
The A/C works fine as far as cooling is concerned, but there doesn't seem to be much difference in fan speed between medium and high speeds on the dash. I'm hoping that with a flush, clean, flow and pressure test, when I put it all back together it will be quite some time before anything has to come apart again, so now's the time to decide on a value for the thermostat. I've seen some things on the internet about people drilling 1/8" holes in the plate of the thermostat so there is some flow even before it opens on its own, etc., but I don't want to do anything strange to a car that has only overheated that one time I was doing over 100 mph and threw the small belt for the water pump pulley. I don't do that dumb stuff anymore, but I will want to try to make the system bullet/Texas proof while I have it apart. That radiator (original to the car) will be cooling the tranny as well as the motor, and will have the big condenser in front of it pulling Texas heat out of the interior, so any advice would be appreciated.
Looking forward to going to Fredericksburg this coming September, as it is less than 2 hours from my house, which is pretty much just down the street for Texas driving. ;-)

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