| Hi Don , The one turn is after apparent zero lash ? I was wondering about that great idea to get seal out . It is a frustrating thing in the car . Why wouldn’t it pop out if you did that maneuver in daily driving ? The snap ring would therefore hold it in ? I get it . Often too , the shaft is roughened a bit by corrosion so a new seal drips too . Corrosion creeps up under the lip , probably if sitting and in areas with salt . I have sort of decided to live with it if a drop or two a week , given effectiveness of repair attempts on your own car at home —-sometimes you end up right back in same place , same slow drip after a lot of work . But rebuilds by Sand G at least have not leaked , they must polish the shaft . So at this point it is down to live with it if minor or rebuild the box . If a lot of work on car might as well do it right , but if shaft good , a quick way to change seal is wonderful stuff . Your time and labor matter too , as far as success or not . I understand you rebuild them too ? or used to ? On the one assembled wrong , the symptom was one could not seat the snap ring in the groove as the pile up was taller when put together wrong . After trying to pound in more , as much as is reasonable , made a tool etc no go .Someone else had pounded too , deformed the seal metal , complicating all this. It had not moved down but nothing was holding it . Maybe it was someone’s “ good idea “ to move seal lip to an un corroded part of shaft ? I made a bushing after measuring , that sits on top of pitman arm —of brass , it holds the damaged metal seal in if it should move down . I had visions of it popping out and suddenly no PS . This has worked fine. I know crude but works and brass is a bearing material against steel of bushing / seal . Suddenly no PS , caused me to crash a 65 NY wagon once . No thanks . In that case original oem HP hose burst . Change those …. While on this , just as an anecdote , I had this same apparently loose mesh problem with Jeep 02 GC , and 67 dart ps The GC factory manual tells you to take jeep box out to adjust , big long involved multi page process on a bench involving measuring inch pounds of torque . You would not believe the effort to get one out , as in days of hard work , just to adjust a nut you can see in the car ? What the hell were they thinking ? Garage is not an engineering lab . All you can do at end of day is adjust the nut, anyway !!? After success with dart ( just turn it 1/4 turn in and see what you have ) — dart took about 1.2 turns , done by wiggling steering back and forth on center until pitman moves without play .compared to input shaft . I did not go beyond that . Done by side of road in NB Canada , as car danced around badly when crazy Canadian truck drivers pass you at 85 . You can see input shaft and pitman in those . Engine on …. then check ends of travel . I think Iteration works . Tried same thing with 4 WD GC , but had trouble as steering wheel became tight with only half turn on nut , it would not return cleanly . So backed off on try # two slightly . Both have been OK for three years now . I am NOT advocating it , but at the end of the day how it acts on road is either ok or not , no matter how fancy your setup method to adjust it … or what is going on . Wear happens somewhere —you can compensate for it at least once? Why it has an adjustment even at the beginning . Anyway , FYI Sent from my iPhone On Jan 3, 2023, at 9:17 AM, Donald Verity <chryslerdon@xxxxxxx> wrote:
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