D&K-
An alternators output in controlled by the magnetism of the rotating field coil, which the regulator feeds based on demand and output. A sticking regulator contact can cause the alternator to go to full output (16+ volts) brighten lamps considerably and wreak havoc on battery and other parts that don't enjoy being powered 40% higher than design.
A short in the wiring between the regulator and alternator may exist, carefully inspect the wire connected to the field terminal on the regulator for its entire length to the alternator.
Danny Plotkin
-----Original Message-----
From: "D.C. Mason" <petergriffinforpresident@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2022 11:11pm
To: "Chrysler 300 club" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} K Spark plugs and Alternator gauge
Hello group,
The old Champion J12Y plugs in the K have been replaced with NGK 5670-8 (3354) plugs. While test driving the car, the pinging that was still sometimes heard on hard acceleration appears to be gone. Will try driving on a warmer day and verify again.
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The below video clip was taken on the test drive. Anyone ever had an alternator gauge go bad in a 64? Wondering if that could be the cause of the attached. Gauge goes from 25% to pegged at 100% sporadically at no particular engine rpm. Dash lights go accordingly from dim to the brightest I’ve ever seen a 63/64 go. All lights are affected- not just dash lights. Headlights go bright and dim too along with gauge indicator movement. This issue was seen when we first got the car and is still happening even after replacing the alternator, headlight switch and voltage regulator (they needed to be updated anyway). Battery is also new. The first thing I’d suspect is the voltage regulator but as I say it’s new and the problem was happening with the old regulator too.
Temperature and fuel gauges are unaffected and function properly. So ruling out voltage limiter because of that, and the fact that headlights are part of the problem. We’ve owned several 63/64s and have never seen this before. As we all know, subtle changes in brightness of lights in these cars are sometimes noticeable with changing rpm’s but this happens at a steady cruise and is much more dramatic. I will check the gauge with an ohmmeter and compare to another alternator gauge. Maybe folks will have other suggested culprits.
Note- the other problem mentioned recently on email with headlights cutting off when using high beams was on a different 64 (Newport) and was solved by replacing the headlight switch. The subject car of this email is the K. Along the lines of gauges we are also having a problem with the 64 300 sport temperature gauge being dead but I’m still troubleshooting and will report any lessons learned.
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Thanks,
D&K
Sent from my iPhone
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