|
John, The 300K convertible I picked in LA in the 1980’s turned out to be a PA car with rust. It took a lot to get it good. Not great, but good. Since those days I have done two Jaguar E-Types. Both cars acid dipped and a full body reconstruction. The amount of time and money on those is staggering. My lead work skills are now quite good after those two. My 1962 Corvette had been in an accident, and they had heated the frame and pulled it straight on the front. I ended up getting the front of a frame from Chicago and rebuilding it. Again, a PITA. I have learned my lessons. My point on responding to this thread is that A LOT of people who may be reading this may well be new to the hobby. For them I think it is incumbent on us with experience to point out pitfalls and cautions that they may not know about. You or I would look over the car with an experienced eye. My whole point is to point out to folks like that that sometimes what looks easy is not and what look expensive may be a good deal. The latest 300K is a case in point. It needs a lot of TLC, but the body is in such good shape for an early 1960 uni-body that I would not have believed it had I not seen it with my own eyes. By the time I am done with it, I will have perhaps
$20K into and a very nice driver. If I could have purchased a good sedan with a big trunk I would have. But everything new that I liked was in the $50K to $100K range. Even if I put $30K or $40K into the 300K and eat the fuel prices…I will not hit the break
even point where the new car is “cheaper to drive” until I am 90! Best, James From: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> An observation , or two , after doing 15-20 of these cars .. since 1970 . It costs exactly the SAME , if you are really going to do it right ( paint , interior and driveline) to do a rough one , as it does a 70 % good 20 footer that has been “ restored” Think about that .—might save you 30-40k. So decide where you are going day one . So if really going for close to perfect or a 90% and repainted driver find a complete unmolested rough one cheap . You thereby also avoid the unbelievably clueless hidden damage done by lame attempts at fixing many small things so common
in a 20 footer — that you pay 2-3x as much for. . Been there too many times . Watch for burned harness hanging wires… The only big caveat is avoid rust like the plague . Even if “ fixed” , that rust fix is temporary . Exception to that may be a rare high end 300 (Gauguin red 300C convert ) . In that case despite huge amount of body off frame , full body rebuild , we found frame is often shot at rear wheel kick up . Trying to fix that with weld on section is a joke as rust is exactly where you would weld, at bottom of frame
box — the part you need strong . Can’t weld to rust . Charging frame is big stuff . Try to find a 57-58 convert X frame … Rust may thus cost you 20-30k more , an lot of aggravation, and a lot of time . The body rust does mean other places rust . Look very carefully . Might have been cheaper to just buy one , but to James’ point , I know this car in and out . I am ok with way it went . Now rust free . Even more so on unibody , “new rockers “ in an F or G does not fix often equally rusted structure behind the rockers integral to unibody car safety . “ new rockers” on those run up a red flag to me . May be ok , but ? Look for that factory
groove at rear of rocker . Where it came from matters , I can laugh now but pretty cars from say Minnesota area will usually have smooth bondo over that rocker joint ,and are often missing the inner rocker center section completely , ( look behind ) whereas
Nevada cars will have intact grey primer underneath .and lots of rock chips but often original paint . They may look a lot worse ,baked out inside , chipped, but they are the jewels. Not advocating any approach , just observed info . I’d add the engines are often rebuilt when not needed to be rebuilt ( Jerry Kocur got 300- 350 k twice out of his 300K B blocks) , hemi were legendary for 200k + . Machine shops can ruin
a good engine . For instance grinding crank in a C 300 to D removes a very special induction hardening — only 300 and marine had in their hemi . But first thing machine shop wants is grind it .010 , bore it etc etc Smoke , lifter clicks, skips , one low cylinder etc are often cured by mobil one , new filter and 50 miles at 90 . New valve cover gaskets , let’s you look in to see .. Just sayin, from positive experience 4-5 times…nothing to lose . Intermediate step is a new timing chain , they all stretch . These engines are real premium pieces , I doubt a machine shop can match original, unless an exceptional place with proven following and proven racing success . And I have had damage done , followed by long sad stories One thing to do is rebuild the iron trans by Don , a known erratic hassle spot . Most have been messed with inside several times over the past 50 years .Non 300 parts are inside Aamco rebuilds . ReNu or new gas tank , add external large stainless metal mesh filter at tank , get rid of sock . New fuel pump , not NOS . ( ethanol) Be sure generator and starter / alternator brushes are free to slide, clean the guides they sit in .
That stuck brush syndrome from storage , or bearings — are what causes troubles . Silicone brake fluid . Hope it helps ,,my .02 .. J Sent from my iPhone
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/CY5PR19MB61712E78A8B81E6774BFD23C93EF9%40CY5PR19MB6171.namprd19.prod.outlook.com. |
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network
Archive Sitemap