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James -
I strongly suggest taking the alternative route of
having the whole body refinished, rather than just sections. I can pretty much
assure you that the old paint and the new will not be a perfect match. And it
will look like crap. Also, spraying clear over the old paint is not a good idea,
as there is a good chance that the clear will not bind well to the old
paint, causing problems. I think any good paint guy that is not just interested
in your $$$$$ would point this out.
Ron From: James Douglas [mailto:jdd@xxxxxxxxxx] Sent: Friday, December 02, 2022 7:11 PM To: Ron Waters; 'Chrysler 300 club' Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Paint formulas My 1964 300K that I
just picked up is an 90K mile car with the factory paint still on
it. I plan on having my
body shop do a computer match at several places on the car so we can see any
differences. The plan is to conserve the paint on the car if we can.
There are some places like the top that we may have to paint and a couple of
spots on the rear roll of the trunk, where peoples hand would have grabbed it.
We may have to spray the entire trunk lid. The only other
thought is do we do a single stage match or wet sand the entire body after
shooting the roof and the trunk and then shoot a clear coat over it all
including the factory (still in good shape) pin stripping. Once I get a
computerized Ruby Red, I will of course post the formula for anyone who wants
it. James From:
chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Ron
Waters Another
factor that I learned when we were matching the colors for my 1959 Dodge is that
the color of the primer affects what the top coat will look like. We did
sprayouts on white, light gray and dark gray cards that simulated the primer
color. The difference is noticeable. Ron From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of Dan Plotkin I will offer my
opinion based on experience. It may differ from others here.
Formulas work if
someone somewhere came up with an acceptable color match using modern urethanes
rather than antique lacquers and enamels. That is what your shop is asking,
is there a formula out there that works today is what they want to know.
So if you saw a car recently painted in a correct 300 color and you had his or
her formula, that is a good way to start. Old formulations will not help. Old
paint chips have faded. Benchmarks today are surviving original cars with some
original paint left and photos. At the end of the day it will be a close match
but ultimately your discretion. Best thing is to
order the paint in the stock color you seek and then have your painter do
several spray-outs using tints to dial the color in. You need a benchmark to
dial towards, any original paint left, or another car with a correct color you
want to duplicate. You can order paint in the stock colors, even 60 year
old colors, but you will need to have a benchmark to use as a match. I painted a
56 Cadillac Dawn Grey which is a pale violet that can look pink if improperly
tinted. I ordered Dawn Grey from Glasurit using a Ditzler or RM color chart from
the internet. Then we did two or three cardboard spray-outs and tinted to match
them to original paint under the trunk lid. Is it dead on? No way to know but I
like it. Danny
Plotkin From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of D.C. Mason Hello
all, Does anyone know of a good source for paint formulas for our
cars (letter or non letter)? We have information on paint chips and
codes, but the actual formula is something our local paint shop asked for, since
the code didn’t cross to a formula for mixing. Recently Jay Hackleman was looking for a formula for parade
green; not sure that was ever resolved. It may be wishful thinking that
there is a site that has formulas for all the colors. Looking at email
archives led to a page on the club site with additional codes but not actual
formulas.
Thanks! D&K Sent from my iPhone -- -- -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/3E826303285041CABDD2A1EDD8CE087A%40ThinkPadL520. |
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