Hi on this two comments , First the problem is not usually the wires , although they would be marginal with a larger alternator on AC car just as Danny says . More in a second on that . The problem is the 1/4 flag terminals are really 20-25 A devices in the bulkhead connector and they will get warm occasionally under heavy loads and lose their spring tension over the years . Bad design to overload those as they did. Then resistance goes up , they oxidize and corrode and then they get really hot and even melt the bulkhead locally . That leads to total failure . All mopar have this issue through 70’s especially dodge trucks and even Darts. Heater / AC fuse clip too does same thing . Jumping that fuse behind fuse block with modern 30 A blade fuse from ACC feed at block to output wire is a good idea . Always solder , crimps are problems on high current , never use those blue insulation cutters . So the cure for bulkhead is to cut the 2 (4) wires flush with the bulkhead connector on each side , solder on one of same gauge under hood and drill firewall for a rubber grommet next to bulkhead pass them thru and solder other side . Insulate joints neatly made with 3/8 shrink tube . You can parallel both with another 12 , that is plenty of capacity but don’t go crazy trying to make it look stock . Use black THHN building wire tie neatly with small tie wraps . Using Tape makes a big sticky mess with the heat under hood . As Dan said you need not run to ammeter just from alt post to starter relay but that will cause ammeter to read about 1/2 amps . Still reasonable to do . Trying to get # 8 or # 10 wires onto ammeter can be a party . The current will divide equally between two # 12 in parallel if bulkhead thing is fixed The second problem is amp gauge . The nuts get loose as there is phenolic insulation in the pile up where studs go into ammeter . If this nut gets loose as phenolic shrinks it all burns up . So remove all wires and tighten really securely the first nuts against the phenolic , KL lock nuts and small washers to spread out clamp area might be good . Be careful of shorts etc , Ammeters vary . On fuses that is not where to fuse . You can add a 50 A super fuse in the heavy lead right at the starter relay , that wire powers the whole car ; —-another way is a fusible link ( Fords have them / napa ) , They come in two gauges , probably Ford AC car or not , or Lincoln . Get the heavier one . One end fits stud other end has crimp ferrule . Critically important to crimp right with tool that crimps a line along the wire , not cheap tool that flattens it ( T and B Tool) usually orange and black . If two 12 you have to solder so only one 12 goes into ferrule or improvise . What it is ,is a special thinned wire that gets a little hot normally , but has special silicone insulation good for maybe 600 F . If a short anywhere in main charge circuit , ignition switch etc ( or rest of car wiring before the item fuses) it is a thin place , and will melt first protecting main larger wires. While on this , twice I have seen destroyed 300 F and G harness where the main feed to power windows seat etc breakers passes though the large stamped sheet metal hole at top of drivers kick panel . Wire rests on sharp stamped edge wears through , = horror show . Slit a small rubber hose lengthwise and place over that wire , or use that “wind on “ nylon stuff Hope this helps , John Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 16, 2022, at 9:51 AM, Dan Plotkin <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Subject to what John says I say you are chasing far too much complication. Among troubles I’ve seen along these lines is when a high capacity alternator is installed, a fresh healthy battery is installed and allowed to go stone dead after leaving lights on. When the car is jumped and -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/A713EBFD-B400-4172-9D45-147EE06AE5D7%40gradyresearch.com.