|
Hi All,
Photo of my fix for worn out idler arm. I installed two
“sealed” roller bearings, 1 1/4” od. They press-in flush to the arm. Then I
machined two Dilrin thick washer to mimic the bushing when it is assembled.
Never have to lube again.
Gary The Parts Doc
From: RICK AND
DEBBIE CLAPHAM
Sent: Friday, October 28, 2022 8:01 AM
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Re: More on idle arm You
stated the hole on bushing was .630, .625 equals 5/8: .005 clearance.
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy
smartphone
Get Outlook for Android From: James Douglas
<jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, October 28, 2022 7:28:08 AM To: RICK AND DEBBIE CLAPHAM <rixpac@xxxxxxx>; Chrysler 300 List Server (chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx) <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: More on idle arm Hi Rick,
I measured mine a couple of times and the bolt is 0.56 inch which is 9/16”. Same bearing type as in your photo, but smaller hole.
Since holes do not get smaller, generally, it must be factory.
James
From: RICK AND DEBBIE CLAPHAM <rixpac@xxxxxxx>
Here is a steering linkage system I removed from a 60 NY wagon, I parted a few years back ‘Big mistake’. It had a 5/8” same system as the 64.
From: RICK AND
DEBBIE CLAPHAM
005 clearance. Rick
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International
<chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Hi all,
The idle arm thing is interesting. At least as far as 1963-1964 goes.
I need to run down a NOS idle arm to see what bolt hole size is in the bushing. I talked with the technical person ay Rare Parts and he confirmed that there was a bearing solution in addition to the bushing solution. They no longer make it.
The issue is the difference between the bolt size and the bushing sleeve ID. The bushing sent by the supplier has an ID of .63 but the bolt is .56 inch. That is .07 inch of play which is a lot.
Now it is possible that when torqued down to 60 to 80 Foot Pounds as directed in the manual, the bushing sleeve is crushed (pinched) between the two brackets and therefore cannot move fore and aft under the steering pressure. The rubber probably moves that much.
I am sticking with the bearing solution as I think that the less movement on the idle are the better.
If I was to use the bushing, I would take come shim stock of 3 thousandths and line the bushing, so that the bolt fit is good and snug.
IF the idle arm moved fore and aft, without springing back because of the bolt sleeve space it would toss off the alignment a bit.
Always fun working on these things…
Best, James
-- --
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/CY4PR2001MB18611B3093444CE52E36944CD4329%40CY4PR2001MB1861.namprd20.prod.outlook.com. For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/D7AE7515A85C4040868E70D1F28ED22F%40OwnerPC. |
Attachment:
idler arm conversion-1.jpg
Description: JPEG image
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network
Archive Sitemap
