| Hi John G,
I have battled this a number of times. I believe you are correct that the housing deforms slightly when tightened or otherwise isn’t completely flat/true. The newer chrome housings or any aluminum housing is especially bad for this. You would think there could be decent gaskets out there as well? The paper ones seem to just get wet and leak. You can permatex both sides of the gasket or mating surfaces, but it doesn’t stop coolant from seeping through the “sandwich “ of the paper. I have coated the ID and OD of the paper gasket for this reason and it seemed to help. But mostly I don’t use the paper gasket. I will just use some permatex. And wait a day or two before adding coolant back. Another thing I’ve found helpful is to use a 3/8-16 thread chaser and clean the threads really well that your bolts will go back into. Then either use antiseize on the steel bolts or else use stainless bolts to reassemble. I also use washers to try and increase the surface area that the bolt will snug against. Lock washers and/or thick flat washers with an acceptable OD. This has helped a lot.
V/r dave Sent from my iPhone On Aug 18, 2022, at 10:13 AM, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Agree , lower hoses when old seem floppy easy to squeeze flat . I personally have never seen this scenario of pump suction flattens hoses , heard it since 1960 , but I believe it could happen . New hoses seem made of more rigid stiffer rubber . Possibly only center of bend needs support ? You could make it of solid #8 or 10 copper wire …? Wind around pipe? While on this any one else have any issue with thermostat housing leaks at gasket ? Leaks later no matter what you do to flatten it torque it correctly etc .— It gets old draining radiator 3-4 x only to find it is dripping there again . Dry gasket , rtv gasket etc etc keeps happening . Has to be a reason . Finally fixed with orange silicone gasket I think shared with chev bb . But seems on edge .. weird thing . Happened on 3-4 mopar .. i suspect housing not strong enough to stay flat . Packard had same leaking issue with welded steel necks ( rust through too ) went back to cast iron . Sent from my iPhone On Aug 18, 2022, at 8:54 AM, D.C. Mason <petergriffinforpresident@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hi JY,
For what it’s worth, I asked this question to my local Napa store owner a few months ago and was told that manufacturing has gotten away from using the coil wire, because the hoses are made stronger to resist collapse at temperature now. I’m not sure that applies in every case, but it may be worth looking into. If you use wire maybe somebody makes stainless now to avoid the rusty mess from the plain steel…
V/r dave Sent from my iPhone On Aug 18, 2022, at 6:43 AM, Jean-Yves Chouinard <jymopar@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Speaking of rad hoses, anybody have a source for the coil wire present in the lower rad hose to keep it from collapsing? I have seen that coiled wire in the upper hose of A/C cars as well, it helps it to stay away from the generator or alternator belts. Lower
hose wire is slightly bigger diameter vs upper hose wire.
Jean-Yves Chouinard.
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> on behalf of D.C. Mason <petergriffinforpresident@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: August 18, 2022 2:41 AM
To: apozdol <apozdol@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Rick King <rickking952@xxxxxxxxx>; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Radiator Hoses
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