Re: {Chrysler 300} 1963 Chrysler 300 Fuel Gauge
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Re: {Chrysler 300} 1963 Chrysler 300 Fuel Gauge



Hi Mark,

Just a pure guess here, but if that capacitor is leaky (from an electrical perspective), it might have the ability to alter the circuit behavior.  Try removing it from the circuit and see if that improves the situation.  If yes, replace it with a new capacitor.

Mark Obermann 

On Mon, Aug 15, 2022, 8:35 AM <mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hello,

 

Does anyone know the function of the component that looks like a distributor condenser that is attached via wire to the fuel gauge?  See attached picture and you will find a metal cylinder component that is in the picture next to the speedometer cable inlet.  Would this failed component affect the gas and fuel gauge?  Thank you.

 

Regards,

Mark Lindahl

 

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Mark Lindahl
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2022 9:27 PM
To: Carl <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; 300 Club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 1963 Chrysler 300 Fuel Gauge

 

Thanks Carl and John!  I will check this out. 

 

Mark



On Aug 14, 2022, at 7:43 PM, Carl <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:



Hi Mark, exactly what John says, plus this:  63 doesn’t have an oil gauge, just a warning light.  So only the fuel and temp gauge affected.  What I have seen on J is that fuel and temp will slowly rise or fall in unison when VR acts up.  Mine does it about once in a blue moon so mostly just a nuisance.  I believe VR is actually part of internal fuel gauge – not external.  Not a real precise device to start with – pulses battery voltage on and off to get an average 5.5V or so to the gauges, gauges designed to respond slowly.  Dash ground can be issue as well.

 

Your symptoms sound more like fuel sender, ground strap, wires etc. just as John describes. 

 

And you can test gauge outside the car for basic operation.  I use an old cell phone charger -outputs 5V DC, perfect for testing gauges, cut the end off, strip the 2 wires, solder or screw wires to alligator clips, good to go.  One lead to power terminal, other lead to “S” terminal (sender), polarity doesn’t matter.  Gauge should to full scale after a short delay once power is applied. 

 

Carl

 

From: John Grady
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2022 6:16 PM
To: mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: 300 Club
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 1963 Chrysler 300 Fuel Gauge

 

Hi if vr is bad it will cause the temp and oil gauges to act up too .If  VR fails ( it is rare to fail unless wiring is messed with ) it will usually fail full on , all 3 gauges tend to peg  or read very high . That state  can hurt them , burn them out . All except Amps are powered by same VR unit .poor ground of VR device itself will also do that , don’t know about J but dash ground is an issue on FGH . It takes three wires to work , 12 ign supply , a   ground and the output which flicks on and off . Shorting the output wire which runs to all tha gauges or on PC Card will blow up VR 

 

With ign on put  a volt meter from the temp sensor lead on engine  ( leaving it connected)  under the  hood to ground . You should see a voltage coming and going about every half second with a stock VR . Can’t see it well on digital meter , but easy on analog meter . If you see that fluctuation  and I assume temp ( or oil)  gauge is working ok ,VR unit  is fine .

Tank gas gauge issues are almost always the sending unit, or wire near tank  . the ones sold as “ exact  replacement “ are usually not correct ohms .And the rate of change with gas fill is off .  So you get strange readings . 

Work it if out car in your hand ( ground it ) be sure it touches bottom of tank , if replaced try to get E right , as F does not matter as much . Keep old ones , sometimes can be cleaned and fixed . Never increase force of the little sliding contact on the wire winding , it will tear up the winding . 

Be sure a good ground from the outlet pipe

 To frame . One good way is scrape a clean place on outlet pipe wind 3-4 turns of 14 ga stranded building wire , then put  small SS hose clamp around that winding . Other end to nut and bolt into car metal .

From description of jumping around , if the other gauges are ok , probably bad connection in harness , likely at tank or trunk wire or an intermittent ground of tank issue .

Rusty straps do that  Or sender is in trouble . Good luck , frustrating  … 

Jg 

By the way you can short sender to ground at tank  terminal briefly , the gauge should go to full or beyond . Good test of wiring and gauge and vr .. Do that only if if other gauges are apparently working  

 

 

Sent from my iPhone




On Aug 14, 2022, at 6:40 PM, mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:



Hello All,

 

Is it possible to test the voltage regulator that is part of the fuel gauge on the 1963 Chrysler 300 outside the vehicle?  I assume the voltage regulator looks like a condenser in the ignition system?  (See Photo) It is attached to the back of the fuel guage.

 

Mine was fluctuating between full and ¾ and bouncing all over the place.  I tried a different gauge and VR, but now I get intermittent readings that are not accurate with a full tank but slightly different than the original gas gauge/VR combo.

 

I am trying to avoid tearing the dash apart only to find out that the VR component may not be working well.  Thank you.

 

Regards,

Mark Lindahl

 

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