Hi to all I was one of those “lawmakers” being the Queensland representative to the Steering Committee that produced the Australian Load Restraint Guide. Load restraint laws here are based on maximum likely dynamic forces encountered while driving, not crashing. All bets are off when it comes to restraining a load in a crash. If you want to see what we developed for truck drivers as a practical guide you can download the Load Restraint Guide 2018 book for free (although it is a big 62 MB download). Go to https://www.ntc.gov.au/codes-and-guidelines/load-restraint-guide Crossed lashings are not mandatory for rubber tyred vehicles as rubber will provide enough sideways friction. Different for steel tracked excavators for example that require direct sideways restraint. In fact, no particular restraint system is mandatory. It’s the “performance standard” that is mandatory. Unfortunately it is a complicated issue due to the wide variety of loads that vehicles may carry and the multitude of ways to restrain each load. That is why our guide ended up as an A5 book, ½ inch thick where only 1 page is law. Cheers Henry From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of John Grady
Sent: Monday, 15 August 2022 5:21 AM
To: finsruskw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: Mwl1967; rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 300G tie downs Hi Dave , not surprising govt enforcer does not understand forces that are always pretty much directed straight ahead in accident at speed and trying to resist those by 45 degree tie downs is not too swift . Say your truck is rolling down a driveway , you going to stand with rope at 45 to stop it ? Or will you stand straight behind it ? Which way is more effective ? Lawmakers cannot change the physics of the forces in a right triangle vector force diagram . But they can act like they know all about everything . On the other hand if chains are good for ten tons cross them . Problem Is NOT car sliding sideways on trailer . And it won’t slide if tied straight . There are no high forces sideways . Unless you roll over and car sliding is the least of your problems then . It still won’t side if tied long way with chains and frame eyebolts . This is one of those “ we always do it like that “ things . Actually, We once saw someone else do it . And thought it was a good idea. If really worried do both . As I said your mileage may vary.. but the physics of the forces in the straps won’t vary. Good discussion , sort of be aware is the point . An old trucker adage is “No such thing as too much chain.” On a truck, hauling machinery, you are likely to get ticketed by DOT if chains/tie downs are not “X” ed…..and tight period. And, I might add, in many states anyone hauling anything on an open trailer is fair game for the DOT. I see them many times around here sitting along the road behind a stopped pickup/trailer combo with lights a flashing. E track screwed to the plywood floor of a van is no stronger that the screw that secure it to the floor or X members. Use the factory installed anchor points. Any tie down is no stronger than it’s weakest link. Be safe in your travels. Real issue imho in all this is lots of things can work well on a long tow , no question , but if an accident , fabric straps Will break car hurtles forward .A Winch in front does not help, and crossed straps , in rear , just from the vector of forces in that setup , will experience almost double the tension of straight straps . That is huge . Also brings up how strong are D rings bolted to floor — especially yanked sideways ? Many I see are just folded rod under a sheet metal cover . This is not an area I really know , but just from the engineering scale of things here , you need something like 3/4 or 7/8” shank forged eye bolts passing into frame and then straight or almost straight chains , at rear —-said bolts going down though trailer frame rails or to iron structure added for them , large washers on far side . Your mileage may vary with your appetite for risk .(!) But idiots will cut you off … aka the silver Toyota problem . Matters more to really hold car in an extreme situation than scratched paint on axle tube ? although a good wrap should stop that too . Good subject to get into here .. raise awareness .. I dunno... my 6 and 8 year old have no problem attaching under the car. Of course I check afterwards -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: 'John Grady' <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; 'Nick Taylor' <nicksgaragesd@xxxxxxxxx>; 'chrysler 300 club' <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sat, Aug 13, 2022 5:13 pm
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} 300G tie downs I agree John, I don’t like running the straps under the car if I don’t have to. I looked close at the rear axle on my G and I just don’t see a location I could strap around the housing without touching the brake line except if I ran it between the wheel and the spring pack and there’s too many hard edges in there. E Track looks very good, but I just don’t tow that often, and I’m adding an additional 8 tie points welded to the perimeter. I keep coming back to these lasso type: easy to put on, I’ll weld the tie down right where it works best, and I Iike how short they are. Anybody try these? Watch out that straps on rear axle do not touch gas tank , or exhaust , — after tightening car down . Learned hard way , you look ok , but after tightening it can touch and rub constantly = hole/ damage . Depends of course on angle to trailer rings etc The point made by Mac’s about keeping them straight at rear , not crossed , car nose in , seems absolutely correct to me . The cheap orange flat straps you commonly see will suddenly tear , end goes flying 1000 mph . Beware . Not strong enough to tow With . I had two in a row , the 1000 mph included the middle metal buckle. ( stuck car ) . I would not trust as tie downs in an accident . Chains are # 1 Mac's is where I got my tire block straps for my trailer to use with e-track. Their basket straps are custom made for the size of the tire and so you have limited use with them. I need to haul various cars. My trailer still has the d-rings and stake pockets so I can use all kinds of straps. I'm not limited to the track as the car just sits on it. It gives me the flexibility if I need to haul pallets of something on my car trailer or other materials like long lumber. I agree that Mac's has the best stuff around. I shopped all kinds of different brands and types and theirs were far and away the best quality. They answered my questions quickly and assured me what I was trying to do was going to work with their straps. And they will try to make anything custom you need for your application. There are certainly cheaper straps and I've used some of those when borrowing trailers. Good idea on keeping those straps in your car trunk. I've had my F towed a few times and wince at what they do sometimes. I have to say they may not agree to use your equipment though. check out Mac's Tie Downs. When I first needed to trailer my car I didn't want to look for bargains but rather a company I could ask questions of and made in the USA. They suggested, and I purchased, a kit of four tie-downs they referred to as their Direct Hook Ratchet. Being one who always struggles with typical tie downs, this one makes it easy in that the ratchet and hook attach right to the ring on your trailer's deck, with the other end being the only loose end with another hook. That hook goes to an axle strap they sell with a fleece lining. The fleece lined strap goes around the rear axle tube, doesn't damage anything and then STRAIGHT back, not crossed. They said the reason for going straight back is that if the tow vehicle-trailer combo is in a collision everything wants to continue in a forward motion and the straps keeping the car from going forward are strongest in a straight line. The same setup on the front... I wrap the fleece lined axle straps around the subframe or strut rods depending on which car I'm towing. If you go with the tire attaching setup I believe your use of them would be limited to only the wheel-tire size combo you purchase it for and if you get the setup that requires a track on the deck of your trailer you're stuck with that. Comparatively, I always keep the fleece lined straps in the car, tucked under the spare tire, in case it ever needs to be towed. The tow guy can attach his ugly metal hook to my straps and I don't have to worry about the undercarriage being damaged. I've ordered a separate, longer set of fleece covered axle straps. If I need to trailer one of my SRT's I pass those straps thru the wheels because the car sits too low to get underneath to find something to wrap around. Check out their website for ideas and give them a call with questions. They've been helpful the times I've needed answers. Hope this helps. My plan is to trailer my 300G convert to the Pasadena meet, and I’d like some feedback as to tie down methods others have used. I have an 18’ non enclosed flatbed trailer, and have been looking at the tie downs that go over the tire, called lasso or basket tiedowns. Anyone used them on their letter car? If axle straps are better, explain how you protect the brake lines, and where do you attach straps to the front? All feedback welcome, thanks.
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