Re: {Chrysler 300} 300G tie downs

I have used axle straps since I first trailered my C in 2009 on an open trailer. Front axle straps go cross-wise with the driver side being anchored to the trailer on the passenger side and vice-versa. You loop the strap through an opening in the lower A-arm on each side. My straps have a sliding padding (like what you see with people wearing seat belts to prevent the strap edge from scratching exposed flesh). On the front I position it on the part of the A-arm where it will be looped. Cinch the tie down straps tight. On the rear I do the same cross application on the axles next to the rear axle banjo and they just cross under the forward edge of the fuel tank. I again use the padding where the strap will wrap around the axle on the brake line. Cinch these tight also. I have always had a winch in the front and I attach the winch cable to a strap with a padding sleeve around the front frame cross-member and put tension with the winch. When I got my enclosed ramp over trailer 4 years ago the first trip we towed the C to was the Newport, RI meet. I had the arrangement I just described along with a netting going over the top of each wheel )wheel covers removed to avoid trauma)cinched to a chain on the part of the tire facing inward to the chassis anchored to D hooks in the floor. TOTAL OVERKILL AND A HUGE PAIN! It took me at least two hours to get everything in position. So after that shakedown trailering experience I had E-Track rails installed on both sides of the trailer ramp overs and used a strap over the top tread of each wheel anchoring each tire this way in front and in back of each tire with special track fasteners. This still took about 45 minutes to secure everything when loading the car. After two long trips with this system I have decided that the front and rear cross strapping with the winch cable attached to the front cross-member with just one f tire strap system in place and one rear tire with the same arrangement worked just as well as having 4 tires strapped. Voila! It only takes 20 minutes to load and secure now. I use the passenger front wheel and driver side rear wheel to secure (easiest to maneuver around) and no problem! With an open trailer you probably only need the front and rear cross straps and if you have a winch secure the front cross-member and don’t fret over wheel straps. This system worked superbly with the borrowed Texas Roll-Back trailer I used to tow my C to the Branson Meet, The last 35 miles from Springfield to Branson was replete with huge hills and dales and the C didn’t budge! Hope this helps! 300’ly, Rob

On Aug 13, 2022, at 3:15 PM, 'Mwl1967' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Bob,
check out Mac's Tie Downs. When I first needed to trailer my car I didn't want to look for bargains but rather a company I could ask questions of and made in the USA. They suggested, and I purchased, a kit of four tie-downs they referred to as their Direct Hook Ratchet. Being one who always struggles with typical tie downs, this one makes it easy in that the ratchet and hook attach right to the ring on your trailer's deck, with the other end being the only loose end with another hook. That hook goes to an axle strap they sell with a fleece lining. The fleece lined strap goes around the rear axle tube, doesn't damage anything and then STRAIGHT back, not crossed. They said the reason for going straight back is that if the tow vehicle-trailer combo is in a collision everything wants to continue in a forward motion and the straps keeping the car from going forward are strongest in a straight line. The same setup on the front... I wrap the fleece lined axle straps around the subframe or strut rods depending on which car I'm towing.
If you go with the tire attaching setup I believe your use of them would be limited to only the wheel-tire size combo you purchase it for and if you get the setup that requires a track on the deck of your trailer you're stuck with that. Comparatively, I always keep the fleece lined straps in the car, tucked under the spare tire, in case it ever needs to be towed. The tow guy can attach his ugly metal hook to my straps and I don't have to worry about the undercarriage being damaged. I've ordered a separate, longer set of fleece covered axle straps. If I need to trailer one of my SRT's I pass those straps thru the wheels because the car sits too low to get underneath to find something to wrap around. Check out their website for ideas and give them a call with questions. They've been helpful the times I've needed answers. Hope this helps.

Mike Laiserin

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sat, Aug 13, 2022 12:39 pm
Subject: {Chrysler 300} 300G tie downs

My plan is to trailer my 300G convert to the Pasadena meet, and I’d like some feedback as to tie down methods others have used. I have an 18’ non enclosed flatbed trailer, and have been looking at the tie downs that go over the tire, called lasso or basket tiedowns. Anyone used them on their letter car? If axle straps are better, explain how you protect the brake lines, and where do you attach straps to the front? All feedback welcome, thanks.

Bob J

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