| Yes that JB works great on block cracks properly prepped externally as block does not get above service temp of JB . Manifold temp is another whole story … it melts and burns . Drilling ends is right stops stress but manifolds are usually in pieces . I had a block crack once between two core plugs put the old stop leak in it did nothing to prep it and it was ok for thirty years and , no it did not clog radiator or heater , although I am sure a lot of it sat in bottom of block or radiator later on , but run rpm to 2 k for 20 minutes when first put in . I dislike anecdotes , but this did work ..
Nothing to lose , was the thinking .. again you cannot weld cast iron . You can kind of stick melted metal over it , call it welded , but it might even hold crack open as it sets from hot . And so still leak . JB in roughened raw vee much smarter . Sand and paint . Sent from my iPhone On Aug 11, 2022, at 12:23 PM, Rick Beckman <rocketman426440@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Guys,
What I have been told over the years by some pretty good Mopar enthusiasts, mechanics, and some old school max wedge racers on the subject of cast iron cracks is...... Drill out the ends of the cracks (supposedly to stop the crack from getting larger, grind a 'V' into the crack, and fill with JB weld. I am not kidding. I actually had an old drag racer tell me this. He had done it in the past when racing the early 60s mopars 'back in the day' on various cast iron and aluminum racing parts of the period. I know because I have an old 426 Max Wedge block that has been cracked between the freeze plug holes on one side of the block, welded up successfully, and it also has another crack on the other side of the block. I was looking for someone to weld this other crack up. The guy that I was confident could do it has now passed away. I have not attempted the JB Weld fix myself, and the block is just sitting in the back of the old shop. I was told the reasoning that it has worked and will work is that there is not much 'stress' in that area between the freeze plugs. The only pressure will be the circulating water from the radiator and whatever pressure the radiator cap is (10-12 lbs?)
My real plan was to have it professionally welded and then just 'half-fill' the block just above the freeze plugs for strength. I have seen this half-block fill trick done many times. Coolant cools the cylinder heads and the top of the block with water while the oil cools the lower block to manageable levels. The engines were put in street cars and worked well with just a 'half-fill". I hope this contributes something to the decision. I remember my dad used a lot of JB weld on many things throughout the years on the big block engines of the 60s that he had, but he passed away a couple of years ago and I don't remember any of the details of those stories anymore myself.
Good luck,
Rick Beckman
Though I would never recommend JB Weld for this particular task either, I have to say I was impressed by the stuff back in the 1980's on a different type of exhaust manifold repair.
My Dad made the mistake of trying to get our Winnebago off the freeway one hot summer afternoon when we discovered we'd lost a fan belt on the 1976 Dodge 360. By the time he got it to rest and shut it down the engine was overheating badly. Replacing the belt
took a few minutes once it cooled down but we discovered a large exhaust leak immediately. Upon removal of the manifold, we found the flange had actually warped quite dramatically on the centre ports and would no longer seal against the gasket.
With the manifold off, Dad spread out what I recall being about 3/16" to fill the void and filed the mating surface flat as a temporary fix. It lasted more than 5 years and 10k miles before it burned out...... That was probably 35 years ago and epoxy technology
has improved considerably since then.....just sayin'.
Agree also jb weld won't work I think better use crazy clue or duct tape should do the same barry
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