RE: {Chrysler 300} Taper brake drums and F plate frame -- FYI

["Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Straight talk:

Don't separate 57 thru 62 hubs from drums. Ever. Don't do it. Just say NO.
Chrysler manufactured these as one-piece assemblies for a reason. 

Yes, you have to find used. They are out there. You just have to make phone
calls, find people with parts cars, look under enough rocks and you'll find
'em.

Don't buy from Kanter. They sell overpriced junk.

Ron  
 

-----Original Message-----
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of John
Grady
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2022 8:35 AM
To: chrysler 300 club
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Taper brake drums and F plate frame -- FYI

Trying now for 3 months now on and off car to get new manufacture uncut
drums correctly centered to our stock taper rear hubs . There are no pilots
, the thing was apparently machined in one piece at factory to center shoe
surface to taper . -and new drum stud holes are oversize compared to our old
ones cannot do the common ( today ) press fit stud way of centering drum
without major machining of  hub for new very large studs . Which may lose
center precision  . Not that good to start , per measuring all  5 , was
only intended to hold wheel ? Conical bolts average it out? 
Drum center "new style pilot hole  " are about 2" used on new drums to
center but 2" drum machining hole is  tapered inside , you need to take like
3/16" off our hub face to make a deep enough pilot -that is too much . Hub
flange is not very thick ( ? safety issue )  .
Frustrating thing , 3rd time all four off the car . This time We bought real
brake drum arbors and shaft/ cones ; but with taper hubs there are real
issues with trueness of taper inlet and outlet diameters where drum turning
cones sit . Normal cones were  too large for small outer end of taper , we
had to buy a whole second set and smaller arbor made for euro small cars .
Days of messing with this trying to get consistent numbers in lath setup
leads to conclusion our drums were allowed to be slightly wobbling ( -.010
-.015) as rough attached to hub , and this was fixed if it happened by final
machining of "shoe face inner  12" cylinder " referencing to only the taper
. So 11or 12" " bore"" is often moving around some , inside  the stock
casting , --= why most original drums on our cars have factory welded
balance weights . You take this apart you are screwed , cannot get good
radial numbers due to slight  wobble  . New drums do same thing . Our
concept was simple - hand center drum radially on hub then pin , wheel clamp
force is holding then too  it looks like later no taper mopar . Simple thing
has turned into atomic project , radial numbers all over the place partially
due to wobble . 

Add in doubts about real cause of measured weird runouts -? = It is a 3D
issue ?? due to cones sitting on taper ends not in the plane of drum face ,
leads to inescapable conclusion we need to make a tool  out of a used axle
to hold the hub for sure on intended center, and be truly orthogonal to axle
.  . As they must have done . So this long story is asking if anyone has a
junked rear or loose axle . We will pick up shipping . I trashed many rears
, someone must have a junk one out back , or axle . Clean up the yard!!
Wrecking yards won't ruin a full assembly . All axle ends seem the same
plymouth to 300 , 11 and 12 " .

We need to solve this as drums "already on taper hubs"  (as mopar serviced
this ) are not available new  and used are topping 350 and often already cut
to max. New drums sold by Kanter for instance have oversize bolt  holes do
not center without a pilot . How this started , inherited from prior owner
who gave up 


Second -- back at F plate frame , - we could use the center part cut out of
junk 60 body below trunk  where plate frame mounts so fabrication house can
trial fit , use for QC . 3 rd try at this one , back to brass casting .
Twenty years and 5k later ( plastic injection molds - parts were failure
cannot chrome well)  still no good  F frame . Help on this appreciated !
Best regards ,and thanks  John Grady 

Sent from my iPhone

--
For archives go to
http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/D25678B9-7
47E-43DA-AE64-F0524B61D5FA%40gradyresearch.com.

-- 
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/5BD769A4E2674F4DA2D4255CC415FA00%40ThinkPadL520.