| I use Dot 5 and have a metal disc on top of the master cylinder cover that says DOT 5. When I changed from 3 to 5, my thinking was the same as Ron’s. Doug Warrener Sent from my iPhone On Feb 26, 2022, at 6:59 AM, Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
This highlights another reason why I stick to DOT 3/4
when rebuilding a brake system. If you were away from home and discovered a
slight leak in the system, a well-meaning mechanic might just grab a bottle of
DOT 3 and top off your system. If it was filled with DOT 5, it could be
problematic and could result in brake failure. Any system that is filled with
DOT 5 should have a label on the master cylinder that reads, 'USE DOT 5 ONLY' on
it.
Jack, if your car has a leak in the brake system, I
would advise against driving it more than a very short distance. The problem
needs to be addressed immediately or bad things may happen.
Ron
Thank you all.
How cool is it to see so many eager to help.
I was able to reach Tom White Jr who restored the car with his dad along
with John Cote, the previous owner. DOT 5 it is.
Thanks, again!
On Feb 25, 2022, at 18:40, Jack Child
<captainjack767@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I’m on the road and discovered a leak in my brakes. My notes are
at home as to what type fluid to use.
Can anyone help?
Thx!
On Feb 25, 2022, at 17:35, 'Keith Langendorfer' via
Chrysler 300 Club International
<chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
In the late 1980’s, I had a “Silver and Rust” 1980 Honda Accord
four door sedan that i bought used and it had spent its entire life in the
upper Midwest and New England. Honda “repurchased” from me in for around
$1300, which was twice what the car was worth. The northeast zone rep told
me that they would remove and destroy the vin plate and crush the car. And
you’re correct, as the sale was predicated on everything being on the
car as he inspected it prior to my signing the title and it being
destroyed.
I always thought it was remarkable that anyis manufacturer
would do that and certainly gave me a positive bias towards Honda for its
products.
Keith
On Feb 25, 2022, at 3:52 PM, Ray Jones
<1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Sorta off
subject, but interesting. VW had a camshaft problem in the (I think) late
60's. Seems like they had been melting down German war ships and reusing
the steel. Eventually, they ran out and started to make new steel. The new
mix was not as good and they had massive cam failures.
I remember
pulling engine after engine and replacing the cam shafts, by serial # 's.
Many were fine when rebuilt, but they felt they owed the folks that bought
their cars.
Imagine
that! Fixing them BEFORE they failed.
Honda had
a similar problem. Serious rust of the body. Affected cars were notified
to come to a dealership with personal stuff cleaned out and title in hand.
Service rep evaluated the car and wrote a generous check on the spot.
NOTHING could be removed, wheels, tires, radio and any accessories had to
go with the car. Rep would arrange for the bought cars to be taken to be
crushed and went with them to assure that they were crushed, as he bought
them, completely.
Be safe,
Ray
Richard: I think your cam looks fine. It is
probably better than any new cam you can buy - especially since the
lifters spin and there is no apparent wear. Recently, there have
been serious issues with some of the currently available cams - and
especially the lifters.
However, I would definitely upgrade to a high-zinc oil such
as Penn Grade 20W-50. That would help to ensure your cam and
lifters will last for years to come.
Rip
Hello,
Since there has been a lot of discussion related to a cam for a
different year, I am trying a new email thread and attempting pictures
for the first time to the group.
I have the top end of my G engine apart. I had a bad exhaust leak
and wanted to detail some things by taking the intakes were off. While
apart, I wanted to look at the cam as I have never run zinc. The engine
was assembled 20 years ago, using a Mopar Performance Cam P4452783 (6
pack specs which were close to the original cam specs). I degreed and
retarded the cam per factory specs….
If the pictures come thru, the discoloration can be seen on some of
the lobes. You cannot, however, feel any roughness or anything other
than very smooth, even with finger nail. The lifters all still spin on
the lobes also
I am thinking since I am in this deep, I should replace the cam.
Unfortunately, this cam has been discontinued and the replacement seems
to be intergalactic backorder. I would consider a Comp Cams, but the
specs are different. I’d like a lope to the engine, but when possible, I
do drive this quite a bit around town and don’t have time to be changing
plugs frequently, so I don’t want to go too large.
My question is for those who have a lot of experience with cams and
rebuilds. What are your thoughts on these discolorations on the lobes
and simply keeping this cam in the engine?
Best regards,
Richard Osborne
(Currently stuck in San Jose due to multiple cancelled
flights….)
<DD55BB89-EE9F-4652-8C18-0FD9A1D0CFD3.jpeg> <5F42A98E-F7BD-4007-AA90-3C507B8ED4BB.jpeg> <52E04FE5-6DCB-40D0-8D64-E22158DF0BB3.jpeg> -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang---
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Jones. Y'all come on down an see us. Ya hear?
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