From oil to fluid! Big fan of DOT 3 for classics driven slot. Always available, tried and true. DOT 5 synthetic solve water in the brake system issues. Long term Stored cars or those parked in climates with wide swings in temperature will suffer from condensation in the brake system which contaminates the fluid and corrodes components from inside out. DOT 5 does not mix with water and is less susceptible to temp swings. It will destroy you’re rubber parts in time so a proper upgrade requires DOT 5 resistant components (any rubber seal sliding in a cylinder.) I try to drive my stuff so DOT 3 is fine. But when one of the boys Ned’s major brake work it’s DOT 5 and a parts upgrade On Feb 25, 2022, at 6:40 PM, Jack Child <captainjack767@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I’m on the road and discovered a leak in my brakes. My notes are at home as to what type fluid to use.
Can anyone help?
Thx! On Feb 25, 2022, at 17:35, 'Keith Langendorfer' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
In the late 1980’s, I had a “Silver and Rust” 1980 Honda Accord four door sedan that i bought used and it had spent its entire life in the upper Midwest and New England. Honda “repurchased” from me in for around $1300, which was twice what the car was worth. The northeast zone rep told me that they would remove and destroy the vin plate and crush the car. And you’re correct, as the sale was predicated on everything being on the car as he inspected it prior to my signing the title and it being destroyed.
I always thought it was remarkable that anyis manufacturer would do that and certainly gave me a positive bias towards Honda for its products.
Keith On Feb 25, 2022, at 3:52 PM, Ray Jones <1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Sorta off subject, but interesting. VW had a camshaft problem in the (I think) late 60's. Seems like they had been melting down German war ships and reusing the steel. Eventually, they ran out and started to make new steel. The new mix was not as good and they had massive cam failures. I remember pulling engine after engine and replacing the cam shafts, by serial # 's. Many were fine when rebuilt, but they felt they owed the folks that bought their cars.
Imagine that! Fixing them BEFORE they failed.
Honda had a similar problem. Serious rust of the body. Affected cars were notified to come to a dealership with personal stuff cleaned out and title in hand. Service rep evaluated the car and wrote a generous check on the spot. NOTHING could be removed, wheels, tires, radio and any accessories had to go with the car. Rep would arrange for the bought cars to be taken to be crushed and went with them to assure that they were crushed, as he bought them, completely.
Be safe, Ray
Richard: I think your cam looks fine. It is probably better than any new cam you can buy - especially since the lifters spin and there is no apparent wear. Recently, there have been serious issues with some of the currently available cams - and especially the lifters.
However, I would definitely upgrade to a high-zinc oil such as Penn Grade 20W-50. That would help to ensure your cam and lifters will last for years to come.
Rip
Hello,
Since there has been a lot of discussion related to a cam for a different year, I am trying a new email thread and attempting pictures for the first time to the group.
I have the top end of my G engine apart. I had a bad exhaust leak and wanted to detail some things by taking the intakes were off. While apart, I wanted to look at the cam as I have never run zinc. The engine was assembled 20 years ago, using a Mopar Performance Cam P4452783 (6 pack specs which were close to the original cam specs). I degreed and retarded the cam per factory specs….
If the pictures come thru, the discoloration can be seen on some of the lobes. You cannot, however, feel any roughness or anything other than very smooth, even with finger nail. The lifters all still spin on the lobes also
I am thinking since I am in this deep, I should replace the cam. Unfortunately, this cam has been discontinued and the replacement seems to be intergalactic backorder. I would consider a Comp Cams, but the specs are different. I’d like a lope to the engine, but when possible, I do drive this quite a bit around town and don’t have time to be changing plugs frequently, so I don’t want to go too large.
My question is for those who have a lot of experience with cams and rebuilds. What are your thoughts on these discolorations on the lobes and simply keeping this cam in the engine?
Best regards,
Richard Osborne (Currently stuck in San Jose due to multiple cancelled flights….)
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