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I realize products and techniques have changed dramatically over the past 60 years and no doubt would improve the longevity on a restoration. My point was, stating that a car is still solid 20 years after a restoration isn’t a fair comparison unless you use
it in the same conditions it was subjected to when new.
My experiences with newer products from rust converters to etch primers, epoxies, and top coats have been mostly positive, but like many of you my cars only see use on an occasional basis and sit clean and dry in my garage.
I’m impressed with the rust prevention coatings and efforts on many new vehicles so clearly they have improved.
That said, I rebuilt a full size Bronco in late 1990’s and took a lot of care and attention to correctly finish the patch panels in the quarters. Nice clean butt welds, metal prepped, etch primed, epoxy coated inside, sealed and top coated with quality
product. It looked great, then I sold it. Years later I come across the truck.....Wheel lips rusting and some bubbling behind the wheels. Paint was still shining but in terms of corrosion, no better than it looked after it’s first ten years direct from the
factory. Just sayin’ , if it had been parked after I finished it I’m sure it would still be ‘doing great’.....20 years later.
Ryan
Concerning OEM manufacturing, I've discovered that most of the components that I disassemble and restore were given -- at best -- a brisk "fogging" of paint, often with no primer. As a matter of fact, I often can remove 50+ year old factory paint
with compressed air only - no abrasive. While original cars are arguably more valuable, everything I restore/paint is prepped with an etch primer and often more than one coat of paint.
Thanks for the education! I've often wondered why the 'brows' are prone to rust...
KB
>Also, it isn’t really fair to conclude that methodical use of modern metal treatments and coatings will fare much better than what was originally used unless you are subjecting the vehicle
to the same punishing environments that many of these cars saw daily.
These modern metal treatments have been tested under conditions far worse than what our cars would be exposed to, even as daily drivers in the northeast or Des Moines, IA. I've reviewed the tests, which
were done back a few decades ago by high-quality restoration publications, such as Skinned Knuckles or Classic Auto Restorer. I'm satisfied with the results of their tests and of my own tests on rusty areas of my truck, which sits outside all year long in
the northeast.
Cars were built to a price point that the vehicle's market segment can afford, and still make the company a good profit. So compromises were made. When we restore our cars, we don't have those constraints.
So we can overbuild our cars to our satisfaction.
Ron
Just a comment on the subject of vehicle engineering and metal prep. I’m a natural skeptic so I’ve always assumed that whenever I see a product that could easily have been improved at a very low cost, it was by design. Am I way off base thinking that not fully
dipping a fender or adding a shield could well have been a conscious decision?
These cars were never designed to last very long and in most cases didn’t. Most of the classic cars we enjoy have undergone extensive reconstruction to save them from decay, much of which could have been avoided with improved design.
Also, it isn’t really fair to conclude that methodical use of modern metal treatments and coatings will fair much better than what was originally used unless you are subjecting the vehicle to the same punishing environments that many of these cars saw
daily.
Ryan Hill
Well, if you've ever seen, and tried to remove, the undercoating from the directly-exposed inner fenders of a late 50s Mopar, you see that the undercoating did its job. Those inner fenders
would have been swiss cheese without it. So if that kind of protection had been applied right up to the inner edge of the eyebrows, it would have likely been a non-issue. But they cheaped out and it cost them.
When I did my 58 Plymouth, the fenders were media blasted inside and out. Then a thick layer of Bill Hirsh Miracle Paint (similar to POR-15) was applied to the problem areas of the fender
(inner eyebrows, lower rear part of the fender where the reinforcement brace is welded) as a barrier coat, then the entire fender was epoxy primed. Twenty years later, no problems. Same procedure for the inner quarters and rear wheel well openings, BTW.
Ron
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