Further to the brake master conversation, the 2 pot master to fit a 68 New Yorker with drum brakes has a 1" bore and is available at O'Reilly, has a nut in the center and is low and short enough to fit below the booster on a 60-61 RAM equipped Mopar.
This master also works with GM B body front disk brake calipers and Mopar B body rear cylinders as I have on my 61 Savoy with Ram Induction.
But when I tried that master on my F, with GM front calipers but the stock F 1-1/8 " rear cylinder bore, no dice. Could not get rear brakes to operate, too much pedal not enough juice. My use of DOT 5 is likely operative but I insist on it. To make sure defective parts were not involved I tried two masters and two sets of calipers. We bled until we bled.
Finally, and in consultation with AAJ brakes I bought a 1970 Imperial master, had my machine shop cut it down .700", drilled and tapped two screw holes to replace the bail, knocked the two teats on top of the lid down in a press for clearance, and walah! Brakes!
Sort of. I had to put a little preload on the pedal rod, not enough to cover the compensator port but a tad to make it work right. Its pretty darn good too, but I would have left the drums on if it had been my decision
I've attached some photos and a file on Mopar master cylinders. Remember that bore size and pedal travel/effort are related. Small bore = longer travel but less effort, larger bore = less travel, more effort.
Think out your brake project, don't throw parts at it.
Danny Plotkin
--Attachment:
Chrysler master cylinders.pdf
Description: Adobe PDF document
Attachment:
Chrysler 300 F master cylinder label.jpg
Description: JPEG image
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