Re: {Chrysler 300} Chrysler 300 K
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Re: {Chrysler 300} Chrysler 300 K



The easiest way by far to do the conversion is to sell your 4-bbl K and buy a factory Ram K that is already in good shape. You'd probably be ahead money wise.

On Tue, Jan 18, 2022 at 10:12 AM Carl <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

We have a lot of information about ram manifolds on the Club web site in the tech department:  allaboutrams (chrysler300club.com)    My suggestion is to always check the club web pages first as our electronic communication gurus (Bob Merritt and Don Warnaar) have assembled a vast array of 300 letter car material not found anywhere else on the internet. 

 

The 300J and 300K ram used the same intake and exhaust manifolds.  Yes, they are different than the 1960-62 short rams/headers used on the 400hp 300F Special, the 400hp 300G optional engine, and the 405HP 1962 special order/dealer installed package.  The 1960-62 short rams were water heated and the 1963-64 short rams were exhaust heated.  The 1960-62 exhaust headers are completely different (and basically unobtanium) from the 1963-64 headers.

 

Converting a K single 4bbl to a stock K ram cross ram setup is a lot of work.  The cost of parts has risen dramatically in the last 10 -15 years.  Short rams are worth at least twice as much as long rams, and you want to be sure they are in good shape.  The bottom areas tend to get corroded out from the heat pipes.  The can be welded, with care.   I recommend, as did our late George Riehl, blocking all the heat from the heat pipes at the carbs.  You can get heat block off plates from Bob Merritt.  This means you will not be able to easily run your car in very cold weather.  My view is just don’t use the car in cold weather.  In mild or warm weather the car will start and run just fine with the heat blocked off, but you will want to warm the engine up first a little before heading out or it may stall.  The manual choke setup helps some because you can keep the chokes on just enough to get a mid/fast idle while the engine warms up to prevent stalling, and you will need that on a cool day. 

 

Yes, the cams are different.  The J/K ram setup uses solid (mechanical) lifters.  We have a web page about cams:  CAMSHAFTS -- WHAT? HOW? WHY? (chrysler300club.com)  On a conversion you might just want to retain a hydraulic setup but your choice.  It is all hidden from view in the engine, and you are making the car incorrect from its factory setup anyway; so do want you want.  J/ram K heads are different too, of course, with he solid lifter setup.  Good luck finding any J/ramK heads for sale.  The J/ramK  heads are among the best ever used on a letter car, with larger exhaust valves (1.74 inches vs. 1.60).  J used 4 bolt heads, early Ram K may have used J heads (I don’t know) but most ram Ks used 6 bolt heads.  I think they retained the 1.74 inch exhaust valves but may have gone back to 1.60 inch.  I don’t know that much about Ks.  If you keep a hydraulic setup you can use the existing K heads.  You will lose some top end with the smaller exhaust valves.  Unless you intend to go drag racing, it won’t matter.  You won’t notice in normal driving.   My J was converted to a hydraulic setup by a prior owner and uses 1962 Imperial heads.  I don’t drag race it.  I can light the rear tires up by just applying about 1/3 throttle from a standing start and that works for me.  More throttle leaves longer black streaks.  Tires are expensive.  I don’t need to burn them up. 

 

The exhaust headers are difficult to find in good shape.  Many have been damaged and repaired in the past, and poorly.  Cast iron is very challenging to weld such that it will last through the heat and cooling cycles.    We have had many discussions about that.  It can be done – too complicated to get into here - by a few who know what they are doing – for a price – but they will give no guarantees it will hold.   Header installation on the drivers side is a royal PITA.  Ask me how I know that.  Passenger side is a walk in the park. 

 

Bottom line, lots of cost for parts (if you can find them), lots of work.  End result is a lighter pocketbook and lousy gas mileage, but grins from ear to ear.  There is nothing like a cross ram car screaming down the boulevard with your best girl next to you in the comfy passenger seat.  But you might not want to give her the keys.  You may never get your car back!

 

Carl Bilter

J consultant

 

 

From: Nick Taylor
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2022 12:19 AM
To: Ethan Hall Videos
Cc: Chrysler 300 Club International
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Chrysler 300 K

 

Short rams and long rams are basically the same manifolds. Physically they are the same size but there is a divider in each runner on the long rams. The short rams are missing most of the divider. It's easy to tell them apart. All 1963-64 ram cars are short rams. Before that only the 400hp engines have short rams but they are different manifolds. There are a lot of parts to do a conversion and the camshaft is probably different. The biggest issue with the 300K doing a conversion is that you have to relocate the power brake booster and manifold as it doesn't fit with the ram manifold. I don't know if the 300J uses the same set up. There are more experts here on that.

 

On Mon, Jan 17, 2022 at 5:43 PM Ethan Hall Videos <ethanhall55555@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hey everyone. I have a 1964 Chrysler 300 k. It’s has the stock 4 barrel intake on it. I would like to convert it to a cross ram intake. I am not sure if they make differnt types of them because I’ve here’d of a cross ram, short ram, and long ram. I’m not sure if those are all differnt names for it or if they are all differnt intakes. If anyone has info on this it would be appreciated. You can email me or my number is (330) 608-6596. Ethan Hall. Thank you

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