That was me John. I based that statement on the attached 1961 standard equipment list for the 300G. As always, things can be deleted or changed on a special order car. This is why Gil’s files are of great help, and even with that, the documentation may not include the all the standard equipment, mostly options. The Factory Build Code Interpretation from Gil on my G convert (and others I’m sure) states “Generally items standard on the 300 model are not coded, but in some cases may be. If an optional item is not coded, however, it was not on the car when built” My G has undercoating from the factory, and it is not shown on the sheet from Gil, but is shown as a standard item on the G, so unless specifically deleted from the factory order, all Gs got undercoating. Hard to say with this bronze (non-stock color) G convert without the build info. I’m willing to bet the undercoating was removed during restoration because the owner/restorer wanted full body color underneath. From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of John Grady
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2022 9:21 AM
To: dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: Keith Langendorfer <keith_a_lang@xxxxxxxxx>; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; william ELDER <belder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Regarding 300G convert Hi , while on this subject someone said undercoating is standard on G . Not true at all . I bought a G off the “ back row “ of a used car lot in Reno , passing through on my way to Incline village about 1975 . Big “ 1961 “ on a yellow card in window , just another “ old “ used car in back row in early 70’s . About 1200 $ . Untouched car . Drove to Boston , after a nearby gas station tune up * , and brake job . Anyway I looked under it , looking for rust , just white Nevada road dust everywhere , zero rust and I really mean zero , about 80k miles . Nevada cars are the answer. So it struck me strongly how I could still see factory grey prime everywhere under it , no undercoat . For sure , — why I bought it , was this no rust , grey prime reason , as i was more into F style . ——Unlike a no front floor at all F convert at home , from NY , half dissolved with New England rust . Being young and naive I had it Rusty Jones’d in Boston right after —trying to preserve that grey prime look , —an inner panel hot wax spray treatment in vogue at the time — as all the 60 ‘ s cars just dissolved . Especially mopar . My driver 62 Dodge , the headlight fell out intact from the front fender why I had to junk it still running . Every 57-59 mopar had holes over the headlight , holes in rockers and over rear wheel well . design flaw traps salt and grit up there over headlight . I did not think about the ugly Rusty Jones yellow plugs in the door frame , door etc , arrgh — until I saw them ... So , “ au contraire” as they say . on the undercoating . PS * tune up by seemingly good guy, smart “mechanic “ — I went all the way to Connecticut from Reno at about 9 mpg , travelled on old route 50 , a long very exciting story for another day about heavy snow with no wipers or chains in Utah in April ( What? big snow in April ?!!) . Route 50 in nevada was just like Vanishing Point , one small gas station in Ely . ; sliding all over the place on Utah steep hills , then engine starts missing stalling a bit , erratic just when you need control , etc . The thrill and all that . ... finally crossing the Hudson river it was running so poorly I did not think it would make the hill on the other side . In desperation went into a rest area , opened distributor cap and reset points with match cover . Did not have a gauge . I had been thinking , “damn it needs a rebuild or worse “ for past 1500 miles , I bought a bad engine . Immediately it roared to life , 13 mpg spinning tires on 1-2 etc . My brother and I yell out , “Yahoo !!! “ Why I keep staying you MUST use dwell meter on dual points . Mechanics who don’t will send you off into “soon to arise “ trouble . Don’t change points —just get them set right for just once . Then in under one minute on any day you can clip your dwell meter to the coil terminal , check them you know they are dead on without opening the cap even . Sometimes new installs wear fast at first too , until bedded against point cam , better to keep the old ones imho . Lesson learned early for me a very hard way . Sold three G later on to concentrate on F CD , but it was a good running car , still out there , hopefully unrusted still . Great memories of that trip .. Sent from my iPhone not by choice --
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
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