Hi John, Re. temp sensor, low impedance with aftermarket temp sensors also on ’60-up, just not full scale when hot but reads high. Every ’63 temp sensor I’ve tried in the last 20 years has too low ohms when hot – goes about ¾ scale at 180, both on J and Imperial. I add 10 to 15 ohm resistor in series at the sender to get proper reading on gauge at 180 – jut under middle. Article in the tech dept. on web site about this. ’57 (maybe ’58-’59 too?) also spec’d only a 160 degree stat for non- A/C cars. I prefer 180 stat to avoid sludge, will result in higher gauge reading as well compared to 160. Carl From: John Grady Yes, pretty sure 10 ohms full is about right ---and accuracy of full really does not matter much, sometimes gauge goes over full , does not matter, but E is critical , 60 ohm E seems too low in ohms to me , but he might have measured that on a tank where float is not moving its full range..fix by bending arm if needed. Float must go to the bottom of the tank obviously. . I see personally 80-90 , aftermarket gauge dealers say mopar is 90 E , 10 F and one fellow responded to me on a later Chrysler his is 100 E. so 90-100 ; lower ohms it will not go to E but will stop dropping just above E The cold ohms of the temp sensor are not important ,except what it does predict about what it will be hot, as the needle will just stay at C longer if cold ohms are somewhat high..they seem to be 150 ohms at room temp about 100 at 130F Tap hot water temp ,--- so same gauge needle place at 130 F as E position on gas tank, (as engine passes 130 warming up), but soon getting into middle. Following that thinking , it must be like 10 or 20 ohms at 212 degrees , these values are for senders listed as correct for 1960, in mopar bags.. However if you use this sender in a 57-59 , it goes all the way to H end at 185 , looks like the engine is too hot. I have seen this twice so I know that is correct. On mine I added a 30 ohm 2 watt resistor (mouser) to the sender lead in series with the sender, at the sender , which put it dead center when at ~ 185 degrees in the engine , so all this info ought to let you fixe temp sender, so gauge is in middle with engine at right temp . Gas tank more involved as there is some kind of curve built into the winding wire (it changes width of winding if you look at it , so not only E and F values but how that tracks. Bottom line ,save the old one. Do not increase tension on the rubbing arm, I did that (yeah!--make it better!) it rips up the resistance winding in a few weeks, leave it alone and just clean it , float down about 90 ohms float up 10 , don't worry about 10. For thermal gauges (1960 up) . Don't know about 57-59 or before 57, but someone might have one out of the car as part of resto. Measure ohms, arm up, arm down? We will get there! John On Tue, Nov 30, 2021 at 12:25 PM Bob Merritt <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
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