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Dear all,
thank you for the great advices, i will try to figure out with the IR tester and get more relaxed with the indication at normal running situation :)
follow some history to my temp-gauge case: i found out my old tempsensor did not work after repair of the board, where no indicators worked, except alternator ( i had a repair on lighting of board, oilpressure lamp, temp and gasoline gauge) then i bought
from rockauto new temp sensor and fuel sending unit; at least temp gauge went now alive as described; which means voltage regulator at gasoline gauge in the board should work ; unfortunately gasoline gauge has no life, i measeured all cables and tried with
new and old fuel sendign unit , so far now show.... i keep trying and testing, also will get an new el. generator as the needle balance a lot in alternator gauge, showing, that alternator = generator has passed away; must be a defect of regulator/diode inside
generator.
best regards and keep running
Johannes
Von: Carl <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx>
Gesendet: Dienstag, 19. Oktober 2021 21:00 An: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Cc: johannes schmitz-valckenberg <johannes.sv@xxxxxxxxxxx>; chrysler 300 club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Betreff: RE: {Chrysler 300} Question to temperature gauge 300 k What John said, plus noting as stated earlier in the thread that the sending units can have a huge impact on gauge reading. John as the EE can provide more detail but basically, high resistance in the sending unit = less current flow = lower gauge reading, and vice versa. The gauge just registers the current flow assuming constant voltage (from the voltage limiter in the fuel gauge on 63-64; after 57 years the limiter may not work properly either). Higher resistance when cold and lower resistance when hot.
I have found that the aftermarket sending units for 63-64 seem to have incorrect resistance when hot (resistance too low= more current flow = high gauge reading). You can add resistance in series to get a lower gauge reading for some level of comfort, but what really matters is the actual engine temp – always test with IR gun!
With original factory sending units and 180 stat, the reading on the gauge on 63-64 was supposed to be between the beginning of the “box with the line� and the halfway point when at 180 to 190 degrees or so.
Carl Bilter
From: John Grady
hi , they are inherently not accurate things . once you get used to your car , where it runs is “normal “. The idea is if you notice a change in that normal position check why . more modern cars are digital / accurate and pretty close .. we get used to that .
Check temp at thermostat housing with IR gun .. not expensive and easy , then you know about where 180 or 190 is , on gauge , all is ok .
inaccurate thermal style gauges generally are more of a problem with fuel , such as where is really empty ? Sent from my iPhone not by choice
I believe the owners manual will read that the needle anywhere along the box with the line through it is considered normal operating range and the empty boxes indicate cold and hot. When I ran into this on my 63 Galaxie I went to NAPA and bought every temperature sender listing they had, I think there were 5 listed and the third one I tried put the needle smack in the middle at a real 180 degrees. -----Original Message----- I have just repaired temp gauge. Can someone tell me, where the indicator of temp gauge of 300 k modell in ok situation of engine in normal running situation should be please ? My is not indicating over this position attached after highway run and traffic light stop? Should it be in vertical position ? Thank you I answer myself, if thermostat is defect ? Best regards Johannes Von meinem/meiner Galaxy gesendet --
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