{Chrysler 300} Re: C300 charging and ignition electrical issues
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{Chrysler 300} Re: C300 charging and ignition electrical issues



has to be regulator is bad jack or wiring screw up . only two wires A and F . And a ground . Follow and check . be sure regulator is grounded to fender  
Remote chance a ground in field wiring or in generator windings but doubt that . Problem is not the ampere regulation , as usually the Voltage regulator part of reg should be opening by 14. 5 v , reducing charge . if still full current at 15 v , regulator or wiring to generator is wrong . Regulator is not reducing output . don’t drive long distance will boil out battery .  
other things  you mention are all ok 
Sent from my iPhone not by choice 

On 11 Oct 2021, at 2:15 pm, dplotkin <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

The voltage at your battery at high idle is satisfactory although 15 volts is a little high. If all indications and measurements show a properly operating charging system then I would believe it so and cast aside that ammeter.  

Bad condensers from parts stores are a well-known quantity in our Hobby. They are hit or miss poorly made and should be substituted whenever possible for an NOS original or even an old one that still works. 

I do not go anywhere without a spare set of points and condenser in the glove box of all nine cars



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
Date: 10/11/21 1:39 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: 'John Grady' <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, 'dplotkin' <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, 'Ron Waters' <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>, c300@xxxxxxx
Cc: 'Marshall Goodknight' <mgoodknight@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: C300 charging and ignition electrical issues

Thank you all for responding. I have been attempting to reconcile your comments and recommendations along with fiddling with the car.

 

Here is an update.

 

As I noted the ongoing poor running eventually not running at all was cured by removing distributor #1 (rebuilt by Philbin) and installing an untested, dirty junk yard distributor #2. With distributor #2 in place it started fine, idles and continued to run fine.

 

The consensus was that it was the condenser. I replaced the condenser in distributor #1 with a NAPA part and reinstalled it in the car, it starts, idles and runs fine still a week later. I am now going to carry distributer #2 and two used vintage condenser spares and points sets in the trunk along with too many parts I already carry. That problem appears to be resolved but I remain uncomfortable. Could the continual high charging amperage burn out the condenser? Philbin says no.

 

I have charged the (3 month old) battery for several days and the ammeter still pegs at anything over an idle. New cables, new YnZ wiring, everything electrical works fine. No visible spark or load when I remove the battery cable. When running at 1000 rpm I can turn on the (aftermarket) AC blower, heater blower, defrost blower, radio and headlights to get to the middle of the ammeter. I changed the voltage regulator for another unit, no change, both are stamped 12v.

 

One anomaly, when installing the harness and electrical components several months ago In-spite of following YnZ’s instructions to the letter the ammeter showed discharge when running. My buddy said just change the leads and I did and not it reads “correctly”.

 

I had to buy a new multi meter. Now I get 12.8 V at the battery not running. 13.2v at an idle, 14.3v to 15v at 1000 rpm and up with no accessory load.

 

  1. Would a 6v 1955 ammeter be the problem?

 

  1. Could this situation burn anything else out?

 

  1. The regulator has an amperage adjustment – why wouldn’t I attempt to dial it down?

 

I am still too apprehensive to drive the car too far from home.

 

Thanks again for the help.

 

….Jack

 

Jack C. Boyle

913-544-4650

 

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