RE: {Chrysler 300} Need front brake return springs for 1957 300C
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RE: {Chrysler 300} Need front brake return springs for 1957 300C



Hi Ray: I have been working on my front brakes as well with the same symptom. I discovered after pulling off the drums that the left front oil seal had let go and saturated the brake linings with oil. If you pull off the drums, your problem may be as obvious as mine.

Regarding brake springs: I learned from this dedicated group of 300ers that the rule of thumb regarding brake springs is that…if you can see light between the spring coils, it is sprung, i.e. probably no good.

 

Henry (300C).

 

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Cox Mail
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2021 5:57 PM
To: Ray Melton <rfmelton@xxxxxxx>
Cc: Chrysler 300 Club, Int'l <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Need front brake return springs for 1957 300C

 

Hi

It seems to me the left brake

Is not working.

That will cause a pull to the

Other direction.

That's why the right is hot

It's doing all the braking

On the front. Just jack it

Up both front wheels off the

Ground. Have some one apply

Brakes spin wheels and compare the action of the

Two front brakes. Hope this

Helps the center plane brakes

Are really a pain to get right.

Bob Haag



On Sep 7, 2021, at 6:22 PM, Ray Melton <rfmelton@xxxxxxx> wrote:



Hello Group -

I have been having consistent problems with the right front brake dragging, grabbing and overheating on my 1957 300C for over two years.  Virtually ALL brake components are either NEW (master cylinder, flexible lines, wheel cylinders, brake shoes, fluid) or thoroughly refurbished (drums).  Even after meticulously adjusting the brakes, after driving for barely 1/4 mile, after applying the brakes from only 35 mph, the RF shoe(s) apparently do not pull back fully when pedal is released:  the car pulls violently to the right when brakes are applied - a full lane change and nearly yanking the steering wheel from my hands!  There is no evidence of fluid leakage anywhere, so I don't suspect a wet brake lining, although I have not yet taken the drum off to inspect.  I suspect a broken or weak return spring (maybe plural) is to blame, although everything looked fine when reassembled a couple years (and barely 200 miles) ago.    Clear evidence:  After driving only five miles at highway speed and only two gentle brake applications (turns to get onto highway), I coasted to a stop on the shoulder and checked brake drum temperature through the wire wheels with an IR temp gun.  All three other drums showed ~110 degrees (90 degrees ambient temp), while the RF drum was 220 degrees - it must be dragging!

I want to be prepared to replace those two RF springs when I take the car in for that brake service.  The only springs I can find are from Andy Burnbaum for $96/set of 8 for front and rear brakes; the rear brakes (and LF brake) work fine, so I don't need those extra springs unless I have to.  Does anyone have a PAIR of new or known good return springs for the FRONT brakes on my "C", and how much do you want for them?

Related question:  I've seen some conflicting advice on how those front return springs attach to the shoe:  some say the hook on the spring should go to the"loop", while others say it should go to the nearby "hole" to get a more straight-back pull, whereas hooking to the "loop" might induce a "cocking" effect and increased drag as the shoe slides between the plates when withdrawn.  What is the experience and collective wisdom among you?

Any other ideas about what could be causing my problem?

This radical "pull" is dangerous and drastically limits my driving, so I really need to fix this once and for all!

Ray Melton  Las Cruces, NM  1957 Chrysler 300C cvt  3N572517  white/Gauguin  "Big Red"

BTW, what is the preferred email address?

 

 

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