Re: {Chrysler 300} Stubborn Electrical Connection

From a diagnostic standpoint , and I hate to say this to you now, there is probably nothing wrong with the switch if it holds in one direction , barring a piece of junk or rust in a weird spot . Many ( including me a year ago) do not understand how this switch works .

The culprit is 99% the little switch on the column I think . Early —( or all stock ?) mopar there are a truly junk design , later third party replacements are a totally different design and work really well — but one can’t find them .

How it works :

+ 12 goes to feed ( “ common”) ? black?

at column , BOTH other wires are to be alive all the time , wheel straight . When you turn on the signal , a magnet to hold it is connected by the turn switch in R or L to one of those 12 v wires R or L . And so it holds switch ( so if it holds one way all that at big switch itself is generally good) . When you turn — a very fragile combination of plastic pin and thin contact arms moved by a steel

pin on column open only ONE of the two return 12v wires (momentarily ) depending R or L turn , releasing the magnet .

The little spring contacts there on column switch fatigue and (one) break (s) off , then won’t hold to one side , or then pieces of it jam mechanically breaking the plastic actuator .

test = you have 12 v to ground on both ( all three) wires . Put probe into back of connector , use needle or paper clip .

As part of doing the first thing , i had been into this column switch trying to make a better one out of V3 and smaller type microswitches , but one needs all the old mechanical parts and it was fussy to set up , needs to use old pin and mount — often broken or worn , so put idea aside for now . Again keep broken switches .

So came up with idea of counting flashes , say 8 or 16 ( choice) then it cancels ,just forget the mechanical column switch . Bulletproof .

Actually , switch at directional lever is very well done , I doubt it ever fails electrically if magnet coil ok , but needs cleaning , freeing up and light oil or non white grease on the sliding magnet arm part and little roller — often rusty but still working barely .

What do people think of that counting ? A Plug in fix , little box at column .

I agree connector a bear to get apart , = small strong hands .( call wife) I do not remember a latch or anything , but in your case maybe leave that alone check column connections as above . big switch probably ok . At least you can wiggle it , unlike heater vacuum hose plug , which breaks off the pins if you wiggle it.

Hope this helps ..

John G

Sent from my iPhone not by choice

On 28 May 2021, at 7:58 am, Robert Kelley <rbtkelley@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Any suggestions on how to separate stubborn electrical connections or specifics on how these connections are locked internally.

I have been unable to separate either the cancel switch or the directional switch male/female electrical connections on the 61 year old F. Have just about destroyed the female end on the cancel switch connection. The directional switch connections lacks 4" of wires to enable two hands on the electrical joint with the switch removed from the dash. What a job getting that switch back in the dash as Bob Merritt points out in his video.

You ask why the need, I'm trying to determine if my directional switch or cancel switch needs a cleaning because the directional switch is unable to stay locked in place when turning right. Having read all the Clubs directional switch remedies I was encouraged to take on this repair suspecting the purple wire to the directional switch is not hot. Now I think I have made things worse.

Bob Kelley

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