love the old style dwell meter .. absolutely critical to getting dual points just right , — check it is ok in 10 seconds not even opening cap. — and one should get get a reproduction of that point jumper wire = I think used in later hemi too .
-- Otherwise = The 300 Syndrome: The stock cambric insulation falls off , it can short , so fairly ignorant mechanic will then tape it ,ball of tape there jams advance and rubs on metal housing every time you touch gas wiggling the wire a bit breaking the strands .It has to flex freely . Have seen this 5-6 times. You simply cannot set dual points by eye . It is not the actual gap setting part! — it is getting the point cam perfect on high place with starter twice in different places — even feeler is dicey as they move a bit when you tighten the screws. =of no consequence with single points — but disaster on dual -can overlap with one almost closed if not perfect , causing erratic , intermittent rpm dependent misfire etc . It will run fine with one set by the way in a jam , the set that opens second . Dwell meter tells all. I routinely change the “wire hold screws “ to slightly longer hex heads , easy to tighten / assemble then, too much junk under the too short tiny factory screw you easily lose them. On a dark night by side of road , falls down into bottom of distributor . At the back of hemi . You lose . Workmanship there assembling the stuff correctly really matters . Done right the wire clip sits square , good for 20k + miles . Send to Don V! Save huge hassles . I would add keep a correct capacitor or get rid of “ my new one” with the black wire in a rubber cone , they are chinese junk .( long story) Find the real mopar capacitor with copper strap. learn how to test your cap, ( high ohms on analog multimeter) but the original type with strap almost never fail . Keep them . It was typically exchanged for new junk for no real reason . Cap failure = hard start , poor running , intermittent weak spark . I would add a roll of mechanics wire ( hold up stuff, like exhaust etc ) and add a cheap non digital small multimeter to your travel pile from lowe’s etc .( Southwire one is good) . interpreting flickering digital readings in an analog car a joke. ( electrical troubles) check tank grounding on fuel gauge , interior of tank not rusted . Check corrosion in bulb sockets (clean and silicone grease) it is very critical - particularly on rams ( but all cars) that both exhaust heat valves are free and “ rattling” or else exhaust heat can become stuck “on “ from rust while sitting . It won't run right — too hot at carbs, and if you go fast can actually melt the plenum ram floor under the carb . Happened to me way back. I throw the inner heat valve plate away now, just as chrysler did on J and K . Not driving it in below zero weather . To each his own. Be sure generator brushes are free to slide ( never oil!) ,that is what goes wrong on charging , not the whole generator or regulator , Do not short or ground wires while testing you can blow regulator , not same wiring as ford or gm . Never push down on regulator contacts. It will lock in can burn out stopped generator . leave cover on the regulator! = Keep out. Never needs “ adjustment” . All that results is harm . The only wearing part of concern in generator are brushes if bearings are ok ( obvious) and the brushes WILL stick if parked a long time , sometimes just over winter = funky charging action initially that then stops . Can free with hammer tap at rear or reach in through back with small screwdriver . wiggle them . be sure to have a couple of thousand miles on new brakes as pedal falls a lot as total contact shoes wear in , first 500 -1000 needs adjusting a few times or you can get a low dangerous pedal far away. Valve stems for our rims getting rare , hole is different size, length too — they crack and leak , carrying a few and tire valve tool might make you look very smart one day. Local tire barn had to order them! If radiator or core / hose leaks just leave cap loose , made it to Boston from Minnesota like that , and again maritime canada to Boston . No pressure = no loss That covers stuff that happened to me ! Long post — sorry, but have to add , bought a G in Reno in 70’s , saw in a used car lot totally rust free(!)in back row! I paid the “ local Reno good guy “ to do brakes and plugs/ points “ Set off to Boston . Old Route 50,—- lesson: damn —it still snows like crazy in Delta , Utah ! in late march ! wiper breaker kept opening , so much snow. So ran ok not great but only 8 -9 mpg. progressively ran a little worse every day , i am thinking Oh no — it will need rebuild . Finally — barely running in Ct. 2000 miles later . Just crossed over Hudson . Pull into rest area. Stalls . No start . Get into distributor one set of new points are barely opening at overlap ( tune up?) , so re set with matchbook paper . ZOOM — it goes like hell - now 14 mpg. after 2000 miles (of course ) with fingers crossed eating 200 gallons of gas. SO — Ignore dwell meter need — at your very own peril! Set wrong by “expert “ mechanic. It got me ... much humbled , I did not pick it up . Subtle stuff .. John Sent from my iPhone not by choice
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