These might be better pictures to use as a reference.
The red arrow on the left is to the lock cylinder. The red arrow on the right identifies the rod to the inside lock pin. The blue arrow on the left is the rod from the outer handle button and the blue arrow on the right is the lever attached to the inner handle. This might help if you try to use a slim Jim or similar to try and grab a rod.
Ryan HillI have a spare passenger door from a ‘65 300 in front of me here. The rods from the lock cylinder and the door pin only engage with the latch when the wheel fully rotated upon closing. If the wheel on the latch jambs, you cannot operate the locks but I don’t think that’s the problem.--
I suspect the latch is actually what’s jammed. Penetrating oil may help if you can get it to the right location. If you use a product with a spray tube, inserting it a couple inches ahead of the lock pin, between the glass and the felt with the glass half way down and aiming back at about 30 degrees should get the penetrant where you need it.
You may have already tried this but I think a good shove with the handle pulled back might dislodge the door??
I can provide further pics (hopefully without offending anyone) if you think that may help.
Ryan Hill
Keith,
Thanks, will try all. One thing I see is that the key turns the lock half way. So there is some movement there and you could be spot on that the lock mechanism is jammed. Thank you!
Ron
--On Mon, Jan 18, 2021, 8:19 PM Keith Boonstra <kboonstra@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Since neither inside nor outside handle will release the latch, I think the problem is likely in the lock mechanism, not the latch itself - especially when you mention that the lock button does not move over its entire travel path.
One idea sounds like something way too easy to actually work - and maybe others would know - but might it possibly free up if you shot a load of WD-40 right down the lock rod? Or maybe even give a long shot of the WD straight into the door lock keyhole. I’m thinking it just might find its way magically down to where the mech is stuck and release it. Little harm, cost, or time lost in trying that anyway.
I don’t have a ‘65, but I think a good place to start sorting it out would be to remove the door panel from the drivers door and examine very carefully what moves to make what happen. Then maybe you can figure out what part needs to be jimmied which way, and with what shape of bar or hook you could go down next to the glass in the passenger door, to get the lock mech to allow the latch mech to work again.
It’s not likely anything is broke. It probably just lost its lube and stuck in a bad position. And to make matters worse, the white lithium “grease” that was originally slathered liberally on every functioning part of the door, lock, and glass mechanisms would have certainly dried out 35 years ago into a state similar to old plaster. Scrape and clean that out wherever you can and re-lube it all with something more permanently pliable like wheel bearing grease - or even lanolin based Fluid Film which never dries out.
Hopefully you find a quick fix. Good luck with it, Ron, and let us know what finally works short of calling on your fire and rescue bud to use his Hurst Jaws of Life.
Keith Boonstra-
On Mon, Jan 18, 2021 at 6:18 PM Ronald Klinczar <rjklinczar@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Folks,
My passenger door on my Chrysler 300 always has closed perfectly. Last week, for some reason, it only half way closed. In response, and without thinking, I reopened and slammed it closed.
Forgot about it for the week, and now I find the push button will not engage, the Inside door latch will not open the door, and ⁹the lock button is not fully able to move. The door is stuck closed. Any idea what I should do?
Ron Klinczar'65 300 in Ice Blue--
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