Re: {Chrysler 300} 1956 wiper switch and motor
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Re: {Chrysler 300} 1956 wiper switch and motor



it sounds like it is working correctly but the park switch may be damaged or stuck . There are extensive warnings in the ? 57 or 60 ( forget which ) service manual about not taking the motor off or apart if it has parked itself , rather you take apart by shutting off in mid stroke  of wipe by using key .. many do not know that, I did not.   I think it might be about the folding / arm shortening stuff in those years , but not sure and maybe about hurting park switch .
Those manuals have a much better wiring diagram too . check out . 
The park switch often fails  due to a little nylon cam greased with bad grease that hardens causing  it to stick mechanically to one side . Motor won’t stop unless park opens . if you open cover note where cam is if like that and assemble same way — arm not parked.    The switch is riveted to outside  of cover a big deal to get into , have done it twice , to get cam free , but cam is stuck in inside - it sticks there or in hole it goes through. Not switch itself . but maybe by cleaning with wd 40 and brake cleaner you can free up the little cam — sort of heart shaped a light spring positions it should move freely, snap back  . critical it is assembled (as it sits ) with motor cam not in parked position or you can break it off . (put arm  in mid wipe position) . i would spend a lot of time at freeing it before drilling out rivets .        been there . 

How iit works : ( on 57 assume 56 the same) 12 v always on B , in run position 12 v is on A (is armature)  , other side of armature is ground ( why it burns out if no field ) at motor .    When you turn off , 12V moves to P , goes thru park switch to A again at motor wiring . ( powers it for backwards ) 
In run , F1 F2 are on at 12 v through speed resistor ( field winding ) motor runs .

. less field = faster but less torque ( ok) . note one F is grounded AT SWITCH to do that and what follows . When  you turn off , F1 And F2 reverse positions ( reverses motor)  and 12 V backfeeds from arm / P circuit , through P switch back to field and armature , motor runs backward , now the other F is grounded . when P switch opens all stops . To swap F like that ground has to be at switch  
really good design rugged and strong , only issue is the cam sticks because of junk grease . I use lithium chassis grease , and 75w mobil one mix is even better — after fix 
Any used motor will have same park switch sticking problem sooner or later imho .  could not find nos park switch 
hope this helps . I have tried to help a few guys in club in this ( and myself) twice found burned up armatures / brushes due to trying to run on bench with no field winding ground or switch hanging out of dash ( note A it still “ on “via P in off!  ) trying to park— usually that opens breaker) No F is  same thing as locking a motor shaft and turning on. Switch and motor have to be solidly connected to (-) power .
I am not familiar with 55-56 specifically maybe park switch is the same 6 or 12v ?  
go Jack — 


Sent from my iPhone not by choice 

On 6 Jan 2021, at 10:22 pm, <jackcboyle@xxxxxxxxx> <jackcboyle@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

OK, here’s some more background-

I am keeping the 12v conversion on my C300 as I restore it. So I purchased a 56 switch and wiper motor from another member. – to replace the 55 6v setup.

The switch is not labeled exactly the same as the 56 factory diagram (attached) but there are 4 terminals. At first I was trying to test it without grounding the switch. WO grounding the switch the motor runs in all positions including off. Also, the variable speed position of the switch seems to have little effect on the speed.

Since several members said the switch must be grounded I tied that. Now it runs at speed when on and when turned off it reverses and slows down like it wants to park but never stops.

The only way to stop it is to put the switch halfway between off and on. Oddly this is what I was needing to do with the old 6v switch and motor (for the last 50 years) and what I am trying to remedy.

 

Thanks to all for the help – but I still have not solved it.

 

…Jack

 

<image001.png>

 

From: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, January 5, 2021 3:52 PM
To: Jim Jungwirth <jk-jungw@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: jackcboyle@xxxxxxxxx; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 1956 wiper switch and motor

 

you will burn out the motor on the bench unless you ground the switch housing . A lot of this is on the club tech website , FYI 

john 

Sent from my iPhone not by choice 


On 5 Jan 2021, at 3:12 pm, Jim Jungwirth <jk-jungw@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Jack,

 

 It sounds like you are approaching it the right way. First question is: Do you know that the motor works? Maybe try bench testing it if you have not already.

 

Jim

 


Challenge of the day:

 

I am trying to hook up the ’56 wiper switch to the motor.

 

The service manual labels terminals on the switch: F1 blue, F2 red, A black and “yellow”

 

My 1956 switch has terminal labeled: F1, F2, A and P

 

If I hook it up per the manual and I put the remaining yellow wire on P, it does not work.

 

Is there and alternate wiring diagram with P to match my switch?

 

thanks

 

…Jack

 

 

 

Jack Boyle

(913) 544 4650

 

 

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