{Chrysler 300} Re: 57-58 motor mount ears/ rubber mounts , Turquoise D

Regarding the discussion with Don , on this new set, the rubber is well bonded on offset to the inner pin ; the dodge one I had was for sure bonded to outer-cup ( either way would do job , prevent turning ,) but replacement rubber I got on line was a loose biscuit no bonding to anything . That might be a problem . Will turn . Maybe 57 was a round rubber initially as shown in C and Dodge book so no need to bond ? From design perspective i bet it started that way , changed to offset and bonded / serrated to lock it offset for some good reason .

Also Lynn has been fighting this on Desoto adventurer , he noted ( good info) that parts numbers for dodge desoto and chrysler are all different ( look ~ the same) which may be how they dealt with three block lengths, ~ same frame , same trans .

Tabs on mounts are in back of block tabs on 392 moving the engine forward. Tie rod and trans mount issues happen if wrong . Seems close to radiator but correct .

ours came out ,correctly assembled , more than 2” offset at front to passenger side and on center on back after reversing the trans frame crossmember ( it was in wrong) ; going through numbers , 1” offset difference over 5 feet is about 1 degree , 2 “ about 2 degrees . Compared with the variable normal U joint vertical misalignment ( why you shim at U bolts) with car loading , (max around 3 degree ) this is ok , although less is better . we are redrilling crossmember to move slightly to passenger side maybe 1/2” but the wide part of trans case gets close to floor . this helped head pipe fits on convert x frame too . one tab of trans mount has to be tweaked down in vise ,so as not to break vulcanizing —or just don’t do it .

A new problem came up when tightening it down ( correctly ) the rubber wants to extrude up out of open top of mount , the inward metal fold at top of can is not enough . The inner stub stops about 1/2 “ lower than the rubber , which I think would allow a ~ 1/8” disc to close up the top from inside and prevent that dropping and extruding . That happened on dodge too — engine sinks down over time, so doing that .

I think smart to do , make a disc, given known failure mode of mount .

Long standing confusion cleared up at this end , thanks to all who helped out,

John

Sent from my iPhone not by choice

On 22 Nov 2020, at 9:49 am, Jean-Yves Chouinard <jymopar@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Just reading my emails today, been busy all week!

Yes the engine mounts can install the wrong way as you found out John.

I was about to suggest to get Ed to look at one of your 300C or D to find out where they go, in front or rear of engine mounting tabs.

I don't remember if they go in front or back of tabs( probably front of tabs right?) but obviously if installed wrong, drag link will hit pan or come very much near it!

Working on George turquoise convert?

JY

From: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: November 21, 2020 3:23 PM
To: Bob Merritt <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Chouinard JY <jymopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: motor mount ears

more — to avoid confusion , note in post that yours as shown moves the engine forward , which increases clearance to tie rod , and decreases it to radiator . words and thoughts in head can get confusing
quick check , there should be about 1/2 “ or more between
tie rod and pan , if like 1/8 it is wrong —- long trail here !

Sent from my iPhone not by choice

On 21 Nov 2020, at 10:10 am, Bob Merritt <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Now I think I see what you are talking about.

<00DSCN1941.jpg>

This is from my spare C engine. The motor mount ears are attached to

the rear side of the block castings. I think you are saying yours were

installed on the front side of the block castings.

I wasn't aware you could do that.......but I guess I see how

the error was made.

Bob