Re: {Chrysler 300} Convertible top switch issue /hazard

However

i have been in those too . typically one window won’t move up or down , almost always the contact is burned right off for the front right or left . but other parts inside it can be used to repair another one (!) . It

can go back together wrong about 5 ways with respect to harness shape . take pix first and index marks with magic marker .

inside are two tiny springs drilled in each toggle ( like convert top spring) that when pushing and balanced will keep toggle springy feeling and handle will be straight up . ( way to tell) Put together dry at factory mostly , the springs get rusty ( open window / rain?) . So pull out clean and oil , put back together . if contacts ok . if not take prongs and contact from a parts one . save any crummy looking corroded singles from back seat or 4’s parts inside usually good! on the 4 row may have to solder back strip to center row of prongs .

last time I did it , few years ago , got 3 good ones made from 4-5 wrecks . fixed the ones with best chrome . later ones will look different ( some black tabs some chrome) but inside are same pieces . tricky to not break die cast on disassembly ( minimum bend back ) but can add epoxy to help hold back on if you get in a problem

Go Jim !

thanks for all you do !

John
ps, yes oil line raises questions but have never seen fail . Did you know fitting on engine very special .. not what it looks like — has tiny hole , not regular fitting . to limit flow (?!) . Andy B had those lines. Once I made one from AN braided metal lines turned into a fiasco at gauge , needs special end . I think a pipe thread . pile of fittings . Worked ok, but hassle . fyi .

Sent from my iPhone not by choice

On 5 Nov 2020, at 11:02 am, JIM KRAUSMANN <kraus300@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

John,

Using my 57 power windows will do the same from the driver's switch. Swinging amp gauge is the giveaway. I've tried fixes, It's ok for months or years, and then not.

On the road panic fix is moving all switches up and down till the offending switch releases. Now a habit to watch the gauge.

Separate subject... wondering why the rubber oil pressure line doesn't fail more often. Must be a rugged piece. Maybe I've heard a story or two, but think remote location and age would make for more disasters under the dash.

Jim Krausmann

On 11/02/2020 5:55 PM John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi all,

Following will be of interest to anybody with 57-67 (at least )mopar convertible , switches vary , possibly ---but the design to be described was common. I could see power window switches doing this too.

What happened :

While riding around , top down, I noticed ammeter fluctuating wildly to full charge for a full second or so then waving around and then normal ; I realized later in the drive, it was repeating about every 5-6 minutes. So I made mental note, damn mechanical regulator, (which I love!) must be burned points again , continued ride for 2-3 hours .

Once back , Top would not go up , it moved about a foot and just stopped. Tried again a few minutes later and it went up (whew-rain coming) . =What is this now? = (*breaker was still hot….) . Pulled cable off battery fast.

So got into switch, the switch was actually “stuck on” in down direction, so top was continuously trying to go down for 3 hours! But what happened was 20 amp circuit breaker would open after a second* (thank you god) cutting off power. Otherwise harness fire or burned up top motor , generator or regulator? . So it drew a lot of power (30-40 amps+ ) for a second , as motor was stalled dead at down, breaker opened , then generator replaced that power into battery , then back to normal till breaker closed again, repeat over and over . The reason it shows CHARGE, not discharge is top connects direct to battery + lead, power to top does not pass through ammeter. So when running top, it lowers the battery voltage, regulator turns on generator or alternator to “ full on”, shows a big real charge, cannot keep up with that short, but tries, so you see a big full scale charge. This raises hell with regulator and generator and top motor. May burn them out.

So decided I needed a new switch ---went on Ebay , 220 each (!!!!) = Apparently a known issue . So two approaches,----- I found a 40A standard ‘toggle switch” SPDT and checked hole, bezel etc ; by drilling slightly more oversize, looked like it could be made to work. But non stock looking toggle bat handle. I had gotten that kind of switch before, for a 64 Mustang top motor upgrade (was manual top) from hydro E lectric , an online convert parts guy . Also had gotten 300 hoses from him.

As I had the old switch out , decided nothing to lose vs. 200$. So got it open by carefully prying back 4 die cast fold ins with small sharp dike or wire cutter, small screwdriver . Once open pretty simple, V shaped contact , looked ok, it sits on the middle feed contact, moves by lever bat “end “ sliding on inside of vee ,--- but all was loose , copper vee just flopping around(?) why it fell down and “made” the close side of switch. It looked like missing a spring or something. Mystified ----how can this ever work?

Then I Noticed slider part of toggle is made of nylon , looks “swaged” into metal bat that is the outside handle you move , but closer look , it is supposed to slide out . Inside the hollow nylon and up into hollow bat is a tiny spring like a ball point spring but maybe 1/16“ or 3/64” diameter . Repeat tiny. Nylon is supposed to slide out , pressed out by that spring. Which would hold vee straight in middle, and hold bat straight out. .

Stuck in there now , by rock hard grease!!! Same affliction as wiper motor park cams, hardened grease on nylon parts . So cleaned out with WD 40 , put 30 W oil on it reassembled , works great, back into car.

So, try the toggle on your top. If it is obviously real floppy in the middle, the spring may be getting stuck, or is stuck . When fixed it will self center pretty good –you can feel spring action . I had noticed mine was sort of sagging down, lot of play, but it worked, so what. Know better now! You might not be as lucky with harness etc.

Plus I know the hard way, that on 57-59, if you push “down” switch while top is still latched, (or it “pushes itself”) the big aluminum main arm in back will snap right off at the pivot bolt……talk about unobtanium.

Heads up!

Stay safe ,

john

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