Their is a product calledDeoxIT contact cleaner. It is amazing product. I use it on my Seeburg jukebox. It's a bit hard to find Vendors on E/Bay sell it. Or if ya have a Gatar Center Near ya they carry it. Would be ideal for male femail Connections. Bob Haag On Oct 29, 2020, at 4:31 PM, John Grady jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
add to that thorough cleaning of corrosion and coating male pin with silicone electric grease . with tooth pick ..
Sent from my iPhone not by choice
Here's a forever tip to etch in your (aging) mind. Any time you have a connector apart, take a small pair of needle nose pliers and tweek the pins about 15°. this makes sure that when they are plugged in, they make contact and
cleans up any corrosion in the plug. I can't tell you how many problems this has solved.
Also, if an intermittent problem, with the key on, door open, press the switch to open or close
the window while you wiggle the wires in the connector from the post to the door. This may help make a connection in a broken wire in the harness, and if the window attempts to
operate, you've found the problem. Good luck,
Ray in sunny Mena, AR after 4 days of (4") rain.
Whats her name was going nuts for the lack of sunshine.
The only power seat switch in that ad appears to be for a later MoPar/Chrysler as it uses a single toggle as a four-way switch. Our ’64 switch is similar to the one on our ’55 C-300 with separate switches for up/down and forward/back. This would allow both motors to be operated at the same time, perhaps overloading the circuit breaker and/or the #12 red-wire feed. I did figure out how to get the RHS power seat switch out of its little rectangular frame. Yes, use two screwdrivers as the service manual says but insert both screwdrivers on the same end. There are four flat spring clips holding the switch in place, two on each end. Depress both springs on either end but choose the end with the most “give” to loosen one end so as to enable rotating the switch out. There is a five-wire harness connected to two connectors attached to the switch which must be removed to free the switch for inspection. There are five pins on the back of the switch, continuity checks were made there and all was OK. Will dig deeper tomorrow. Is it possible for a DC motor to run OK in one direction and not in the other when polarity is reversed? The manual says the motor can be removed without removing the seat. There are some more wires and connectors under the seat to check out. I’m taking pix for a low-tech fix documentation. Rich Barber Brentwood, CA at dark-thirty How funny, I just found this guy today looking for power seat parts! Be sure and jump the wires to make sure the switch is the culprit! Allan: I can’t help you with an extra flap but my RHS 300K seat was converted to a power seat (with head rest) by robbing a parts car with same. My flap is mostly nicely-seamed/bound carpet-reaching near the floor—LHS & RHS identical now. The hanging flap appears to be there to hide the seat base and is scalloped up for foot space. If you find one the wrong color, dye-ing it black should be easy. I’d like to hear from anyone with clues on servicing the RHS switch once I do get it out. The switch will drive the seat forward but not back. I’ve just read the service manual direction to pop the switch out using two screwdrivers and have also read the suggestion to just cycle the switch to clean up the contacts but that does not seem to work. Rich Barber Brentwood, CA (Fall has finally fallen) I am guessing that each bucket seat had this front seat cushion rear flap 23-108-6? My power seat did, the standard passenger did not. I am converting the passenger side to power. If both are to have this flap, does anyone have a good black one to spare?
-- Ray Jones. Y'all come on down an see us... Ya hear?
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