The coil EE driven parameters they play with , in the aftermarket , actually will reduce performance ( low resistance primary .. that is for CD ( msd)— not points, not for most electronic ignitions ) . High ratio / high volt coils will directly reduce the current in spark = weak spark . Think of welder amps , same deal . Product of volts and current ( watts) is ALWAYS constant ( watts or joules, aka power in the output ) so your hv coil=weak spark, due to less current . It only takes 20 kv at the spark plug to do it ,Factory is 30-35 k v . plenty extra . A .high current spark burns long and hot .. welder again . . to think we know more about optimizing the coil , than say GM , speaks for itself . Dead wrong . 95% BS to open your wallet. Many do . Like pills to make you 17 again , some believe it, swear by it.etc etc
.
Old coil may be defective ( shorted from running or “ testing spark” with a plug wire off— that kills coils) or likely a bad “ new capacitor” . New ones are intermittent junk . Keep your old Mopar one , with copper strap , test it .
GM has a sophisticated automatic dwell control in HEI , cuts dwell at low rpm , to limit current . So no ballast R . Chrysler uses ballast R . GM gives about 7 amps , Chrysler 6 , with correct coil ohms , about the same spark . HEI is a little better way, maybe . But not huge .
Purpose of both is to avoid a way too high current at idle , while still allowing the designed current in the coil at high rpm . You mess with that ( remove ballast) to raise current you will burn out coil if correct one , ( at idle!).
no or little gain at high RPM ( why is complicated , for another day .. involves limited time between sparks to fill up the coil -or inherent L/R time constant.. why 8000 rpm drag racers go 16 volts— or CD ) ;
with no ballast resistor , or wrong coil you WILL pop electronic ignition or burn up your points, overheat coil. Sooner or later . At idle .. probably on a hot day in traffic .
Ballast R is for reducing current at idle, not for reducing designed correct current at high rpm . Last I looked increasing idle spark is not a problem .. Current is on in coil a long time between sparks at idle .. relatively .
Measuring volts on ballast and making pronouncements all wrong too , as drop is going on and off , meter averages it . Meaningless measurement .... . It is not “ dropping 6 volts” even though that is average .
Pertronix goes through the trouble to make 3 different coils . Think . Why is that ? Answer is : They match various electronic designs .
Now this :
IMHO, actually a fact, all older electronic ignitions lose a volt in the main switch transistor so your 13 v now becomes 12 v . Why the heatsink on the orange can . Spark energy in coil is 1/2 L I squared. I in coil is proportional to V . So merit figure = for electronic is (12 sq) 144 , points (13 sq) 170 . Points ARE that much better , = 20% hotter spark . .. for same correct coil .we went 140mph in 300’s on points. Did not skip ... *
I have always been able to go no matter what —with points , setting is good for 10-20000 miles . Pertronix , you walk . And many in club have . Probably due to no ballast or “ Hot coil” etc .. also wiring that start jumper setup often done wrong . ..
Just sayin ; BS baffles brains , you can screw up your car .
John
PS very rarely can people set up overlapping dual points right on , correctly . Not as easy as it looks . They move as you tighten screw. You need a dwell meter . “Problem with points” = 90% is who is holding the golden screwdriver , slightly off , it misfires badly at higher rpm . Don V does it right .
* anecdote , at test of a 354 hemi on dyno at PK Machine , Fitchburg Ma— one of top race builders in country , 800$ worth of fancy MSD on it . About 380 hp . MSD died on the dyno (!) ( still looked real nice) , owner ran out to car trunk got stock 300B distributor to continue test . Guess what ? — 380 hp , no breakdowns to 6000. Made my day .
Sent from my iPhone not by choice
I've used the Pertronix ignition a couple times now.
Yes, you can bypass the ballast resistor on all the different models. You can also use a lower primary resistance ignition coil with them.
I have seen them installed with the ballast resistor in place for reduced current and they seem to function OK.. On one of my cars, I've "gutted" the resistor and soldered in a piece of solid wire to keep the appearance.
And you're running your AC... Geez, it didn't get out of the 40's here today in Marcellus, NY
John
Larry:
Thanks for sharing.
I’ve seen many posts about Pertronix ignition over the years but few/no clear statements as to whether or not to use a special coil and/or bypass the ignition ballast. Perhaps different Pertronix models have different requirements? Did you bypass the ballast resistor or just run on the reduced Voltage?
Rich Barber—Running A/C in the house this evening for first time this year in:
Brentwood, CA
After two years of trying to determine why my 63 413 Sport was difficult to start particularly when cold, and even harder after it was shutoff when hot and left for 20 minutes to let the block heat sink, I was driving the car less and less.
Good neighbor and pal, Angad Singh suggested I dismiss my ancient and oem Mopar coil and put one of Pertronix's super-duper coils on. At $30 bucks, what did I have to lose? Cheapest tuneup I ever expended.
The car feels like it got a massive dose of testosterone !!!!! Be safe
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network
Archive Sitemap