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Jim: Power Brake Exchange rebuilt the MC and booster on my C-300 and it worked fine. I recall they had to fabricate a part or two. www.pwrbrake.com The large-diameter diaphragm in the booster may be susceptible to cracking. This is a critical part. Even at best, the ’55 brake system may disappoint. There is a reason for the 9”-wide brake pedal—there is room to get both feet on the pedal. A very light cleanup pass on the brake drums may hopefully leave the required remaining thickness. The shoes will adapt to any remaining gouges and ridges. Then take the drums and new brake shoes to a shop that will arc-grind the shoes to the individual drums. Continue to tighten/adjust the shoes as per factory instructions to minimize clearance during the shoe break-in period. Otherwise, the brake pedal will approach the floorboard too closely. Removing rear drums can be challenging. Normal wheel pullers may not work as tension needs to be applied to all five bolt holes. Adding a couple of arms to a three-arm puller can help. Be sure to keep a number of threads of the castellated nut on the end of the rear axles while pulling the drum lest the assembly leave you singing soprano when the drum pops off. Making sure the sending unit gets a good ground is critical. I and others have brazed a lug to the sender base plate and ran a wire from there to a good chassis ground. Try and find a brass float. Corks can get partially saturated to the point they no longer float. Be sure the sender base-to-tank-top gasket is new and resistant to today’s fuel. Create or borrow a device to facilitate balanced tightening of the circular lock ring that locks the sender base to the tank. Just checking—is your car listed on the club registry? Rich Barber Brentwood, CA From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Jim Jungwirth jk-jungw@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] My car has not run in many years, so I’m diving into my car’s brake and fuel systems, I pulled the fuel tank, going to have that checked over. The master cylinder is out, I still need to remove the booster. Wondering what is the best way to go for a fuel sender and brake master cylinder replacement/rebuild and brake booster rebuild. Later on, I will be rebuilding the rest of the brake system. I’m looking for advice, in part, because I’m wary of the quality of new parts these days. I’ve seen the prices vary quite a bit for the new fuel senders. Mine may be relatively old because it has a cork float on it. Is 90-10 ohms the correct resistance? Is rebuilding the way to go for these? Is there a preferred vendor for new ones? There seems to be no new master cylinders available. I know White Post Restorations does master cylinder relining and booster rebuilds. Booster Dewey also rebuilds boosters. I appreciate any and all help. Thanks, Jim Sent from Mail for Windows 10 __._,_.___ Posted by: "Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx> To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/all/manage/edit For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang __,_._,___ |
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