Chrysler is adamant in all their service manuals about expanding those to size in place , with a burnishing tool, which also sizes the internal bore correctly .. it probably expands the outside too to lock it to the block so it will not spin.
Any problems there are a disaster as oil pump drive gets involved .
I’d get the critically sized correct tool and do it right .? Borrow from auto machine shop or have them do it . Usually done as part of block prep with cam bearings .
If old one still there might be ok, measure?
On this, I used a DC mopar performance distributor on a build and it promptly seized in first thousand miles , causing mayhem. They are cheap junk now , no Oiler to get to top bushing —like the old good iron ones had . Taking apart , there was NO lubricant
from factory on top bushing . Taking apart to get oil in is crazy but would do that on a new retrofit . I Also drilled a 1/4 hole in distributor lower housing between the two bushings to be sure oil gets in . Also a way to oil bushings during assembly .
John
Sent from my iPhone not by choice
Building a 383 for our ‘62 300 Sport.....
The Distributor Drive Shaft has a bushing that lives pressed into the block.
Anyone know if that is Step 1 on assembly?
Or can I slide in the camshaft and maybe the crankshaft and pistons before?
And do I need a special tool to install it?
Thanks
Matt Allyn
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