Hi George and John,
Over the years, I have rebuilt or replaced our
1957 300C heater control twice. I knew NAPA sold a rebuild kit, but sent ours to
Jim Tucker in Valley Center, CA. #760-749-3488 to rebuild. He does excellent
work.
John
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of George McKovich
george@xxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2019 1:13
PM
To: John Nowosacki <jsnowosacki@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] update on hot water
control valve for G
I fortunate enough a few years ago to order one and
when it came in the ignorant desk person gave me the whole box of 10 or 12 of
them for $10.... I didn’t complain! Still using them one at a time
today.
George (760-749-3488)
On Sep 3, 2019, at 1:05 PM, John
Nowosacki jsnowosacki@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:jsnowosacki@xxxxxxxxx>
[Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > wrote:
On a whim,
I checked for a Ranco valve at my local NAPA store, and found there is a $10
rebuild seal kit for the H16 (and other) Ranco valves. I had a unit from an old
car I parted years ago, with telltale signs of leakage into passenger
compartment. I bought one of the kits and dug into the valve. You have to bend a
total of 8 tabs to carefully take apart the valve and put it back together with
the new seal in place, but it's not as hard as getting the old valve out of the
car and putting the new one in.
You can ask your NAPA guy to look up a
heater control valve for a 61 Chrysler and his screen will default to the kit.
It's a NAPA Balkamp 6601000 Replacement Seal. I bought 2 of them at $10 each.
After my initial repair of the old valve, I got up under the dash and got the
original out, which looked much better than the old one I had just rebuilt, so I
decided to rebuild the original and put it back in. Carl Bilter has a nice write
up of his adventure getting the valve out of his 300J, but it's probably the
same from about 59 to 64. One thing I would add to his write up is to take a
string and tie it to the heat control end of the cable once you disconnect it
from the push button control. That way, once you've pulled the valve down below
the glove compartment and the other end of the cable has disappeared into the
dashboard, you can pull it back out easily when you're doing the installation of
the repaired valve. Took a test drive after putting things back and had one
small leak at one of the hose clamps in the engine bay, but once I re-positioned
the clamp and re-tightened it, all was well and no more drips into the interior.
Hopefully it's good for another 58 years (and it won't be my problem
then).
Hope this helps others who have had to just bypass their control
for lack of a known fix.
--
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have been removed]
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