Rich , very good questions. On some cars( F I know) the ignition / accessory power goes dead when cranking and the only power feed to ignition is the ballast jump wire . (Trying to unload battery during crank ) . If you connect that wire together to ignition wire for some electronic thing it will try to power Whole car through that wire by back feeding the whole accessory / ignition circuit . Ignition Switch contact —and that wire ( S2) not made for 30 + A will fry eventually . If you hook like stock , you can blow your new electronic switch ( or maybe not) as current will be very high ( 2x normal) with no ballast R during crank .. That is ok with points. ( hotter start spark) The correct answer is a relay driven by that start wire that transfers electronic ignition source power to 12v hot during start and returns it to ignition power after . Doing “something else “ is a cobbled up thing
.after market stuff in general not designed for that start circuit arrangement . Another reason to stay stock . I do not see how anyone can “rebuild “ a vacuum advance .. it is crimped solid . all around . Someone like Philbin May have old stock cans, but rubber is old too , but that is better than a torn one. Why I was chasing a new in production one to adapt to iron 300 distributor . . I know the 300 iron distributor is for sure a better device than any aftermarket thing . The problem is the skill needed to set up right — and not add a ball of tape to flex wires etc , and mis adjust dwell or dual Point overlap . Or put in a nice Chinese intermittent aluminum capacitor. The ball bearing mount of the vacuum Motion in those keeps the gaps correct as vacuum works . Unlike later ones. I am not sure what aftermarket has for that , or what advance curve you get — .you do not know either . Probably SB Chevy . Plug wires need ohmmeter check . 40 k ohms or less and ngk iridium plugs . Check capacitor with analog meter ( dvm useless) It should swing up and return to infinity on 100k scale . As stated earlier all the 140 mph records and all the 56 racing wins were with points. And factory curves. The problem is then -rather obviously - not the points, it is skill to get it right with good parts. It is not as easy as it looks. You introduce a 3 rd party thing and it’s own problems , but may work ok too . That is ok . Important — Use the coil they tell you to . Not low ohm or high output. Electronic spark performance ( non CD) is Not better than points ,— but maybe far less subject to foibles of a “golden screwdriver “ mechanic that is not a golden screwdriver at all —- . ... or else it would be working right. As it did in 56 . Imho .
Electronic eliminates the skill variable , a good thing for Chrysler and GM . And owners.
By the way not against electronic ( to me hot setup is 4 pin HEI no ballast , GM 90’s truck EI coil and later mopar reluctor distributor ) . Just hate to see a great thing engineering wise like the stock 300 dual point distributor panned . I love the thing , as an engineer . Beautiful . Sent from my iPhone not by choice
It would be helpful if someone in the know would answer these questions: - What is the difference between Pertronics I, II and III?
- Which is most appropriate for our 413's (with & without rams)?
- Is it necessary or advisable to replace the coil?
- If so, is there a specification for the new coil?
- Is the start/run configuration including the ballast resistor retained or modified?
- Is the vacuum advance retained?
- Is it advisable to carry a spare?
- Is there a Pertronics wiring diagram available online?
Separate issue: Can vacuum advance cans be rebuilt? If so, who does it? Rich Barber Brentwood, CA -----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of 'mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx' mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2019 8:36 AM
To: mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] New Electronic Distributor - Without Points - 413 I have no idea if the Ebay sample is of good quality, but my recent experiences with Pertronix units suggest to me that it's an excellent conversion if your distributor is in good condition. The unit enables you to retain all of the original appearance except that there will be 2 wires from the coil to the distributor instead of only one. In the past I've heard of some reliability issues with those for some applications, but I believe that those problems (if they existed) have been appropriately addressed. In any case I do recommend that you replace the vacuum advance diaphragm if it is more than 8 years old. It's not a lot of fun to dig deep enough to do distributor work on most of our 300s. I converted my '55 12 years ago (also a 12volt electrical conversion) using a MOPAR conventional electronic system that included a distributor from a 318 engine (slightly modified for hemi instal), an added ballast resistor, and the ignition electronic control unit all removed from a 70s vintage Dodge pickup.. It has been trouble-free for me for 30k miles, but because of the simplicity of the Pertronix system that is what I would use if I were doing the conversion today. ---------------mg
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Posted by: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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