RE: [Chrysler300] power window motors
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RE: [Chrysler300] power window motors





Hi Bob, really depends what is wrong. Let me share what I have seen, it may help..

 

The broken nylon drive gear as you know we can fix or provide the bronze gear at Forward Look Parts (the new name/web site) ; I have repaired many of them , not just gears, over many years, really gotten into them, --and the broken gear failure is usually salvageable if it was spinning but not lifting. . The gear box section is , for sure .  

 

Within the motor , if the output shaft into the gearbox is facing up in the car (only some windows) water can run down inside, and actually fill up the bottom of the motor where bearing and brushes are, with rust ; generally those are rendered junk as you cannot get the shaft out of the rear bearing , it has frozen into it  with rust on the shaft ; attempts to pull it out will pull out the bearing , breaking its mounting.  .In intermediate failures along this line, sometimes the safety overload thing located there corrodes and rusts , loses a critical ground connection at a rusty rivet holding it . It can be electrically jumped out , a new wire soldered directly to rear cap, overload removed, whole thing cleaned,  one drop of oil, and reused.  I even made a tool to precisely hold and cast a new rear bearing into the old end cover with epoxy , as all the bronze bearing ball retention stuff rusts out too, cannot be reused. I also drill an .060 hole as a drain in the bottom of the rear cover . I was successful 2 out of 5 tries with this tool, = not so good odds, lots of time messing with this.  --This also points to Jamie’s ideas of always putting an umbrella type  valve seal on that shaft and seal it to the shaft with RTV> Water ingress there with the shaft up will destroy the motor in short order, ,and water does run down onto it when facing up . Chrysler put a flimsy plastic seal  , but gets hard and does not seal ,and is often missing . Fix this on your car , if an upward facing motor is still good.

 

Bottom line, we have to pass on doing the  motors , but you can find replacements in junk cars , if shaft was facing down, or stored indoors. . Or someone might find a split field motor in production that fits. I doubt it--Very rare now, that design was not used after maybe 1970.

 

The armature itself ,winding wise , usually seems ok, but a bad shaft end at the rear bearing makes whole armature  junk. Rust also gets into and under the field coils , the tapes holding it break as coil expands ,winding wires pop out, hit spinning parts.  Reason two it is junk. All caused by water. So a rewinding shop cannot in general reasonably fix it, due to rear bearing issues. . This has led me to two thoughts. If you have a window with a broken gear but  the motor runs, save that motor--- easy to mix and match motors, easy to fix gears, clean up a non rusted motor inside. .  . I also have noted two lengths of motors, various years, a longer motor has more torque and would probably be intended for rear windows , ?? later on, ----rear window location  also seem to strip the gear the most often. Fit the rear windows very carefully so they do not bind , which is time consuming tricky stuff. We have new plastic guide rollers for those too, part of this issue. Overloaded motor/ gearbox  fails.

 

Last,  I have found some later Mopar motors, not sure from what, ( ? later 60’s?) but still split field type ,a black and green wire, ---12v goes in, one wire at a time , it goes left or right, to ground . Sometimes coated in a black rustproofing too, good shaft seal. . They fit on our gearbox, in at least one case I did that. . They were in a box of “Mopar power window motors” at a flea market, all I know. Still Later than those , they went to much smaller powerful motors with magnets in them, ----to reverse those you have to swap the two wires, the motor itself is not  grounded. It might be possible to adapt those electrically with an adapter relay at each window location, if mechanically they can fit. I have done nothing but look briefly at this. Electrically possible for sure. So throwing it out there.

 

Always drill a ¼ hole and put a bolt through the lift piece before disassembly of the motor from the  spring loaded lift drives, that spring can instantly leave you with no fingers if you pull off the motor. .

 

John Grady

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'Bob Merritt' bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2019 2:30 PM
To: Chrysler 300 List
Subject: [Chrysler300] power window motors

 



In the past I have been able to solve

my problems with power window motors

by swapping in spare units. One of these

days the larder will be bare.

 

Who do you like to use for rebuild 

service of

power window motors?

 

These happen to be for the 62. 

 

Thanks

Bob

 

 






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Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>


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