Re: [Chrysler300] 62 Sport problem
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Re: [Chrysler300] 62 Sport problem

There is a Tach Drive Electronic Racing Distributor “mopar distributor p4120942” that shows up on eBay every so often. 

Since it is a mechanical advance only distributor, my mechanic installed an additional vacuum advance inside. 

I hid my MSD box inside the left side of the console. They now have quick connects. Carry a spare in trunk. If it ever were to fail, unplug old one, plug in new one. 

Need newer wires. Can use standard connectors. 

Run wider plug gaps. Helps prevent fouling plugs. 

Idles smoithly at 700 rpm. 

Tony Rinaldi

Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Monday, October 29, 2018, 1:06 PM, 'Bob Jasinski' rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:


I also have a Pertronix installed in the distributor of my 300G.  It’s been in since 2012, and was a simple installation, easy to return to points if desired.  I immediately benefited from faster starts and better idle.  No wiring changes, except adding the one power lead as I recall.  Big advantage is not having a box to install, and my stock distributor with tach drive remains.  Highly recommended.


Bob J


From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Carl cbilter@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2018 8:50 PM
To: Noel Hastalis <cpaviper@xxxxxxxxxxx>; scooter465@xxxxxxx
Cc: Rich Barber <c300@xxxxxxx>; doug warrener <2hsandaheritage@xxxxxxxxxxx>; Chrysler300ClubInternational <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 62 Sport problem



The problem with the Chrysler electronic ignition is that you have to install a new distributor, and you lose the tach operation (last I knew at least, you can’t get a tach drive version). It is possible to transplant the new guts into the stock distributor, but it is a fair amount of work, and you still have that ugly non-stock control module somewhere on the fender or firewall.

A Pertronix electronic ignition (model 1382 for dual point distributors), on the other hand, fits entirely in the stock distributor, and the only obvious non-stock component is the extra wire to the coil and the wire that supplies power. I’ve had flawless operation from mine in the J for 8 years so far. Contrary to urban legend, it works just fine with a stock ballast resistor and stock coil. Yes it is true that electronic components can fail without warning, but so can just about anything else on a 50+ year old car. Modern vehicles are entirely electronically managed, and most folks don’t fret about that. Electronic ignition is a proven technology with 46 years of history at Chrysler; not exactly new-fangled.

By the way, those who couldn’t get a Pertronix to work: usually it’s what’s called “user error” not a problem with the components. If you take the time to figure out how the thing works (engineering hat on) you can get it to work. Took me a couple tries on the J to get everything aligned correctly, but then it worked like a champ. No more burned points, varying dwell, frayed wires, or cheap Chinese capacitor!

Carl B.

From: Noel Hastalis cpaviper@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2018 10:02 PM
To: scooter465@xxxxxxx
Cc: Rich Barber; doug warrener; Chrysler300ClubInternational
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 62 Sport problem

I guess I agree. John Begian recently discussed this same mod with me. I’ve just been reluctant to move away from the stock setup. 
Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 28, 2018, at 9:53 PM, scooter465@xxxxxxx wrote:
Time for the chrysler electronic ignition kit. When Chrysler brought this out in 1972 it was the greatest thing sense sliced bread. No more points or condenser problems..

Bob Haag
Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 28, 2018, at 10:45 PM, Noel Hastalis cpaviper@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I’ll attest to that! The wire connecting the dual points. Once was on my way home to Chicago from our Chattanooga Meet a few years ago.. Midday northbound on I-65, 90+ degree heat, long construction zone backup - fortunately did a u-turn on the interstate and exited before it totally died. A couple good samaritans stopped and helped - and we finally figured it out after about 3 frustrating hours and phone calls to a couple Club members. Happened again at our 2017 Geneva, NY Meet as I pulled into the parking area when we were to tour Legendary Interiors. At least 6 Club members, led by pit boss John Grady, huddled over the car and installed a new wire I had in the trunk. This also happened near my home. 
My only comment re this little wire disconnecting is that, when the motor starts missing and losing power, it dies and won’t restart. 
Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 28, 2018, at 8:49 PM, 'Rich Barber' c300@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I once tried, unsuccessfully, to assist a fellow 300’er with intermittent misfiring 413 that eventually quit altogether.  Eventually, it was found to be a looseness at one of the tiny screws or hex nuts connecting the two point sets.  I understand that little wire can also fail—totally or partially.  Can be hard to diagnose.  Head-slapper when found.  Everything can fail—capacitors, wiring, coil, dropping resistor and any connection—including the bulkhead connector.  Fire must come from the ignition switch..
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA-Endless summer here.
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of doug warrener 2HsandaHeritage@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2018 1:36 PM
To: Chrysler300 <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Chrysler300] 62 Sport problem
Hi Group,
I need some expert input on my 62 sport conv misfiring or "stumbling". The car has the standard 413 and I have added the dual AFB's and a dual point distributor.
One year ago driving to and from the Ironstone Concours in Murphys, CA ( about 80 miles away) I experienced severe  misfiring.
Pulled all the plugs and found #2, #6 & #7 fouled with carbon deposits ( #2 by far the worst).
Replaced the plugs and thought the problem was solved. This year, drove to local shows and around my neighborhood with no problems.
The trip to the Ironstone Concours this year resulted in the same misfiring  problem.
Pulled all the plugs and only #2 had any carbon deposits.
Checked the compression and all cylinders at 150 +/-.
Checked and set point gaps, replaced the wire to #2 plug..
The engine runs ok with no load, but still misfires or "stumbles under load and at high speed.
The new plugs that I installed last year are Autolite A42B's which I believe are correct. However they may be 30years old or older. The cap and rotor are only a year or two old.
Could a defective coil cause the problem?
Doug Warrener 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Posted by: Tony Rinaldi <awrdoc@xxxxxxxxx>

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