Re: [Chrysler300] turning drums /cleaning up with tapered Mopar rear ax
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Re: [Chrysler300] turning drums /cleaning up with tapered Mopar rear axle





Old brake lathes came with a smaller spindle that you could change out, and then use smaller cones to turn the tapered axle drums. I’ve dome the job on an Ammco brake lathe, and it worked great.
Don
 
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2018 3:43 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] turning drums /cleaning up with tapered Mopar rear axle
 
 

Hi,

Recently got into situation with several rusty but otherwise useable 12” rear drums 57-62 --which are getting rare. Modern day drum turning places like NAPA cannot handle a drum mounted on the  tapered axle hub ; I strongly prefer not to take apart. For those who have not done that, you will  lose the press fit and swaged tight ring on drum side,  part of factory fit of studs . You have to destroy the studs by drilling the center out to not wreck the hub. That drilling lets them collapse inward when you press out. . An animal press out wrecks everything by forcing the larger swaged part out through t he press fit. . Then you get into finding oversize (left hand?) studs ,precision boring the hubs and drum holes oversize  etc etc. I know some have left the drum “loose “on new studs but even that requires oversize studs and precision boring of hub for them, to do it right. Can turn into a frustrating fiasco, off center drum etc. . Or something dangerous if done crudely .

I used the nice multiarm tool sold by a fellow on our site, that is worth the reasonable price in gold; no hassle at all to get them off, despite all the wailing you hear on that with lesser tools. ….you need the right tool, (!!!) and of course slide hammers are out, destroys seal and bearing . IMPORTANT :While on that, always leave the nut on the axle thread ,  loose a few turns or more  , for two very important reasons : 1) keeps it from suddenly flying off and killing you  2) the press off force on the axle end can get so high it crushes the axle end threading and can split it to the cotter pin hole ; now you need a new axle. The nut at end will stop the spreading out tendency.

With all this in mind I am looking into making a tapered tool;--- to mount an intact  drum and hub via the taper to a large lathe chuck, so you can turn it in one piece. Such a thing or adapter must have existed , or was part of 60’s era brake drum machines ?

Just seeking any comment on this situation . If viable might sell the tool.  Looks like not too bad to make.

Best regards,

John Grady

PS,  I know you can change the whole axle, have done that, E body into F size frame, more to gain E brakes on trans swap . . place for both things?



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