Re: [Chrysler300] Welding blocks
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Re: [Chrysler300] Welding blocks

As an aside I have a 401 Buick cracked like that between the external core plugs . In 60 Electra 225 convert( the only real F competitor!) 455 ft/lb torque !  This happens with marginal antifreeze  and really cold snap , or block left with some water in storage . 
While it can understandably cause righteous outrage , I put stop leak in radiator 30 years ago , have had zero
Leakage or problems with that crack . No overheating either . Looks like rusty line on block exterior now . File under “nothing to lose “. Have to check bores in your hp block by Machine shop ; if cracked junk or sleeve . If really only between core plugs I would use it , maybe vee slightly and jb weld plus stop leak . Or stitch weld even better . Especially if only on one side  Machine for GM plugs or toggle bolt type . 
Sent from my iPhone

On 29 Jun 2018, at 5:29 pm, 'David Schwandt' finsruskw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Stand corrected on the “tapping” part of my explanation.

I wish it were feasible and not too expensive, I’d sure like to drop that drivetrain back into something one day, …sigh!!


From: Dan300f [mailto:dan300f@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2018 4:24 PM
To: finsruskw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; 1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx; RWestra@xxxxxxx
Cc: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Welding blocks


Hi all:


Years ago, there was a small company in the San Fernando Valley that was selling the "stitching" units for very large diesel engines.  As noted in the e-mail below, several holes were drilled in a line about 90 degrees perpendicular to the crack and overlapping one another just a bit.  Then the stitching material was inserted.  This material looked similar to the nails in a nail gun but the material holding the dowels together at the point of tangency was the same material that the dowels were made of.  This material was then forcefully inserted into the holes previously drilled.  The "dowels" were minutely closer together than the holes drilled, thus pulling the two sides of the crack tightly together.  The holes had to be spaced and drilled very precisely in order for the insert to work.


Depending where the crack is, this method may or may not work.  If the crack is near where the pistons are nearly tangent to one another, it won't work because there is not enough material to work with.


Hope my description is understandable as I am not familiar with the terminology used for these devices.  Good luck!!!


Dan Reitz

Bell Canyon, CA



In a message dated 6/29/2018 1:12:06 PM Pacific Standard Time, Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:


I have heard of a process called “stitching”.

I believe that was the term .

Whereby a series of holes were drilled and tapped for a plug. Then the next hole was drilled overlapping the previous hole and it was drilled tapped and plugged and so on until the crack was “fixed”

That’s about all I can recall.

I did some research on this a number of years ago and was able to find the web site that listed contacts around the country at the time. One was fairly close as s I, recall, here in eastern Iowa.

I am also in the same fix with a 413 that was built to J spec’s including headers and a “George built” t/flite.

This was installed in a ’64 Newport back in the 70’s & 80’s. and man was it quick!!

The boys had a lot of fun with it in High school!

It’s ‘on the shelf in the shop to this day.

I replaced it with a 361 and sold it later.

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Ray Jones 1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2018 2:36 PM
To: rwestra
Cc: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; Ray Jones
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Welding blocks

Don't know about the welding, but with some creative painting and some Plate Glass, they can make nifty Coffee tables for the shop or Man Cave..


On Fri, Jun 29, 2018 at 11:30 AM, RWestra@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I have two 65 Chrysler HP blocks, casing number 2468030A.. Both are cracked between the core plugs on the outside of the block. Is it possible to have these successfully repaired and if so is there a reliable Midwest source you could recommend? If not I plan to cart them to the salvage yard for scrap.


Rolland Westra

Sent from Mail <> for Windows 10


Ray Jones. Y'all come on down an see us. Ya hear?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Posted by: "David Schwandt" <finsruskw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

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