Re: [Chrysler300] Exhaust Manifold
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Re: [Chrysler300] Exhaust Manifold





I don't have a lot of experience with casting but did custom make some aluminum parts in high school metal shop. Now that we have the technology available to 3D map and create perfect plastic replicas of parts on 3D printers, could a casting plug not be created from a good set and new reproductions be cast? 

Perhaps this is more costly than I'm imagining but with all the money being spent on mickey mouse repairs and the high prices being paid for good original manifolds, perhaps it could be worthwhile? 

I don't need them personally or I might pursue it myself.  

Just in case you needed to know, this was sent from my iPhone. 

On Jan 13, 2018, at 9:16 AM, Carl cbilter@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

 

Same problem of course with the J/ramK headers. Huge amount of cast iron in those manifolds; how does one get the whole manifold to a uniform red heat? I have a J header completely broken in two, poorly welded in the past, and so it most likely is useless. I hear, anecdotally, about so called expert welders in various parts of the country who can fix these problems but as John stated what is the proper technical answer? I have never gotten a good answer in seven years of research. Do we have a true metallurgy expert in the club or known to the club? These parts are scarce.

Carl Bilter

From: John Grady jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2018 9:07 AM
To: Fred Grossi
Cc: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Exhaust Manifold

 
I am looking  at a similar / same problem .. heads up to the 300 group ,—— NEVER hang the head pipe or exhaust off the ram manifold while installing the exhaust pipe. The high leverage easily breaks off the head pipe manifold flange at about 45 degrees.  Very easy error to make . Have seen this twice . I am sure it has happened to others. 
Generally cast iron cannot be welded on a bench .  Unless whole manifold it taken to a uniform red heat The reason is steel of the weld  rod shrinks at a different rate than cast iron and the extremely high stress while cooling due to that will crack the cast iron right next to your new weld . Plus metallurgy changes happen there. Way it is, ignore wild claims. You can get lucky and cracking not terminal . But bad news ,  weak, ready to fall off .. . getting casting really hot and slow cooling ..and  special “ weaker”more malleable “ rods help .but basic idea wrong at core. 
I have become a fan of gas brazing for this which is not  as hot as melting steel . Braze is very strong if it “takes” which gets into flux , skill etc but again needs very hot pre heat — but  only needs maybe half the peak temp of welding . Welding = melting steel . Half the temp=  half the shrink 
All this is specialty stuff . Point of post is not to be taken in by “I can do it” without finding out what is being done . Mine has a failed weld to dig out now , makes it 5x harder to fill in resulting gap .  Or cover whole mess with braze ? Do not know. 
Trying to find a technically proper answer , not an anecdote how “ Jim fixed it “ ... smile .
Great question . If we can find a guy brazing it with an oven , helps all of us on saving bad castings . 

Sent from my iPhone

On 12 Jan 2018, at 4:52 pm, Fred Grossi lowtax@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hello Group,

The right exhaust manifold on my 300F has a crack in it.  I had my mechanic send it off to a welder who is an expert in welding cast iron.  However, I have a feeling that it will not be successful.  Does anybody have an idea as to where I can obtain a replacement?

Thank you,
Fred Grossi,
Arroyo Grande, CA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Posted by: Ryan Hill <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx>


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