Hi all:
I don't know whether this will help or not but years ago when I hired
mechanics to do my work, one particular mech kept installing freon until the
interior temperature reduced to a certain level coming out of the vents.
When it reached that level, he stopped the freon. Never had a
problem. Now I do it the same way to top off the freon level in my
cars. By the way, I bought a tank of FR-12 FRIGC years ago for my old cars
and it still has lots left. Its' properties are a mirror image of
R-12. Cost me about $170 but well worth it.
Dan Reitz
Bell Canyon, CA
_______________________________________________________________
In a message dated 8/28/2017 4:51:21 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
Re:
Freon levels in AC.
While the following might seem strange to
pros and newbies both, I struggled
with this "how much Freon is in it '
question, for many years, pressure
gauges do not tell you, ----This due to
JUNK mopar evaporators on multiple
JEEPS. They are made of thin aluminum,
almost aluminum foil in my opinion,
which then sit in their own toilet
drain water as the drain design for AC
condensation is also
junk.(aka 'that smell" ) So corrosion from outside
and inside
develops a pin hole Freon leak in evap core . At first, no AC
one day---so
you recharge , ok for 3-6 months. Repeat, but now 5 months then
3 months
etc etc. Pin holes growing. Due to still more genius engineering in
JEEPS,
it is 2000$ at stealership to pull entire dash and steering
wheel
out , to get at the flimsy 39$ AC evap or heater core..Heater
core another
'sure to fail" loser from modern mopar. So at ~ ten + years
old you have
both problems , 2000 each, a year apart, (so smarten up do
both at once )
and then at 140k piston skirts break off at oil ring
line , (had been
redesigned "to lighten them"), another 2k+$, or 1998
to 2002 head cracks ,
leaks antifreeze into oil. Whole new engine required
for that one. They
'Redesigned the head". Why? They took the best 4.0
engine ever made , AMC
six, up there with the slant, good engine since the
50's/ 60's , until 97 at
least, they finally wrecked it at end. 4.0 was
making all the new "100k and
worn out " V6 ones look
awful.(they are) . Old one, a 97 4.0 inline six
, made it to
300k in one Grand Cherokee jeep I had .
Anyway, how to
tell Freon levels gets to be a monthly challenge , with your
great JEEP
mini leak in summer, avoiding the 2k$ bill...for a while . So ,
after
struggling lot, had a new idea; new to me anyway.
Refrigerant
coming out of condenser in front ought to be pretty hot , going
into the
receiver /dryer , where it is stored, say when starting AC , and
the
car up from cold, so tried feeling receiver can with my hand at
startup.
(later it is going to be all evenly hot) Idea was right ---it gets
hot. But
it very soon gets hot all over--- refrigerant must spray hot
liquid inside
it ,and heat spreads out in a metal, a good conductor
of heat. But half way
there! So decided to try carefully spraying ice
cold water on receiver can
while AC is operating. Viola!! Where liquid sits
in puddle at bottom, it
will stay pretty hot, but at top half of can it
gets cold from water being a
good coolant , and only a thin layer is
on the inside, not a pond of hot
Freon , like at bottom. After a while I
got good at this. Add a can, you can
feel it rise up, and stop when 1" from
top (arbitrary, my guess) .If
indication of level and this concept , are
not TOTALLY clear to you, do NOT
do this.
It was
manna from heaven for me..I can now tell reserve Freon level inside
the
receiver.no gauges. If low, throw a can in. One of those temp guns
and
water might work like this too.
Agree sight glass is
terrific, if you have one. But once bubbles go away,
how much more could
you add?
Hope this experiment helps
somebody.
Kinda cool!
From: RICK AND DEBBIE
CLAPHAM [mailto:rixpac@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 9:07
PM
To: Ray Jones; John Grady
Cc: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject:
Re: [Chrysler300] 300 G A/C
I am MACS and IMACA certified,
mobile refrigeration mechanic, fourty plus
years and hundreds and possibly
thousands of repairs. You all have good
points. Do not forget the sight
glass in the high side
filter/drier/receiver, as well as the EPR valve can
fool you, pressure wise.
The sight glass tells you what you need to know.
Our Airtemp condensers will
hold another pound if needed. The aftermarket
units? Good luck!
_____
From:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> on behalf
of
John Grady jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[Chrysler300]
<Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent:
Thursday, August 24, 2017 4:34 PM
To: Ray Jones
Cc:
chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 300 G A/C
Just quickly, pressure readings do not tell you
charge level, but I agree
throwing in one can like that --if you know for
sure low can fix it. If it
is not low you can overcharge , = disaster . The
only way to correctly
charge is by weight of refrigerant and a scale -which
they do in an empty
system or first pull out what is in there with
suction AC machine ( a
law now) . Excess
liquid refrigerant is kept in the car receiver / dryer
tank , by design .
It is like a propane tank . Pressure is the same almost empty or full
.
Pressure is Set only by temp of propane ,or refrigerant not by how
much is
in tank .. for things that are liquid at room temp under pressure ,
but
change to gas if pressure drops . Why gas comes out in your grill
, not
liquid . And flame stays about the same size ( same pressure) as the
liquid
tank empties on a hand held propane torch . And gets cold.
Straight
compressed gas ( oxygen) non liquified yes pressure tells you %
full in cu
ft .
Somewhere in FSM is weight in oz of new
charge .. about 2 cans + usually. By
way of understanding , not critique .
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 24, 2017, at 5:08 PM, Ray
Jones 1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx
[Chrysler300]
<Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Go
to Walmart*, there you will find a 134-A refill kit.
It consists of a
can of 134*A, a gauge, hose and handle.
Hook it up to your system, Will
only attach to one connector.
Follow directions (Nobody will see you
doing it)
What you want to do is watch the gauge and see what the pressure
is while
it's running.
If it's low, pull the trigger and add Freon
until it gets the pressure up to
the range it wants.
The gauge has
the ranges marked on it, so it's easy.
When finished, but the
rig in you tool box for future use, you can add more
bottles when you need
them, I get them on sale @ $3.85 or less @ Atwoods.
If you have a 2
gauge pro system, look for the pressure to be 1/2 ambient
air temp on the
low side and double or more on the high side. Some charts I
just looked at
are showing pressure to be triple ambient air temp.
And of course you add
Freon thru the gauges.
On Thu, Aug 24, 2017 at 3:44 PM, 'Rich
Barber' c300@xxxxxxx
[Chrysler300]
<Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
My understanding is that R-134 refrigerant has
different thermodynamic
properties and expands to a somewhat higher
temperature than does R-12 from
a given pressure. Newer cars adjust
for that with larger evaporator coils
and flow rates to achieve cooling but
the outlet air temperature will never
be 40F again. The capillary
expansion tube is no-doubt different, also.
Our '99 Wrangler FA/C starts
cooling immediately. Our '05 Durango starts
cooling slowly but
eventually gets the job done. Both use R-134.
No doubt,
R-12 was a great refrigerant for cars. Eventually, nearly
all
refrigerants will be vented to atmosphere. Some may be broken
down but the
chlorine will still go to the atmosphere and break down the
ozone (O3) layer
(or so they say). Changeover was on or about
1-1-94.
Rich Barber, BSME
Brentwood
CA
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Val Jeffers
edward1108@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 10:38
AM
To: Chrysler 300 List <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject:
[Chrysler300] 300 G A/C
Greetings,
The service manual states 45 ounces of R12 Freon is the
capacity. My
question is, since converting to R134 several years ago, is
that still the
correct number ? I think mine is running low and want to
recharge as it is
blowing cool but not cold as it should
be.
Thanks,
Val
Jeffers
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--
Ray Jones. Y'all come on down an
see us. Ya hear?
[Non-text portions of this message
have been
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Posted by:
"John Grady"
<jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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